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What steps do you take to protect your outboard in freezing weather. I plan to do a little fishing on warmer days and wonder what steps should be taken to protect the boat when not in use for the cold. Just wondering who does a full winterize after each use and who does nothing to protect the boat.
I use my boat all winter and never winterize it. I just make sure to let all of the water drain from the lower unit after pulling out of the lake. I do store my boat in my shop so its not exposed to the elements.
All i do is lower the outboard to allow water to drain from lower unit.
Just what Speck said. I use mine all winter long and when you pull it out leave the motor trimmed down till all the water drains out and i also pull my plug just to be sure none is in the hull that would freeze my bilge pumps.You might also spray some WD on your bunks after you luanch the boat to keep it from freezing to the trailer.I have yet to have mine freeze to the trailer but a few on here have.
All good suggestions.
I do the same and I also twist and turn the trolling motor to drain the water form it also.
thanks for the replys. After I fished Friday, i left the boat out for several hours and lowered and raised the motor a few times until water quit coming out of the lower unit. I was just concerned about any water that might be trapped in the head. I hate to do a full winterize and then decide to go fishing in a few days. I also trimmed it down in storage. First boat, so just hoping i do the right thing.
I always check the lower unit for water in the oil before it gets cold. I've heard of them freezing and cracking.
N2
Ditto on the oil, main cause of cracking the lower unit because there is no room for the ice to expand inside the casing.
It never hurts to ask! I was always taught by my dad is the only dumb question is the one not asked! I do what everyne else is saying! Raise and lower motor about 3-5 times! I also store my boat in my garage so it is not exposed to extreme cold!Quote:
Originally Posted by filetnfish
If you lower the motor all the way and turn it over a couple times, it will kick all the water out of the water pump.
And possibly score the impellor to boot, not a big fan of dry turnovers regardless of how little you crank it, just my opinion and experience. Check / change lower unit lube, purge bilge, livewell / pumps / hoses of water, if any doubt or low spots in hoses fill with biodegradable antifreeze. Keep batteries temp controlled if possible or bare minimum frequently charged. Stabilize fuel before final trip and most important,,,,,,go fishing in the winter keep everything in tip top shape. :)
I dont bother cranking my motor over after I fish, becaue my boat sits in my garage. but I don't think a couple of cranks will hurt anything if you do it immiatly after you pull your boat out. it won't hurt the impeller because there is already water in there that you are trying to get rid of. I'd think that would cause much less damage than if you let that water freeze, then on the next trip out when you crank her over and that frozen impeller has to tear loose. I don't ever crank a dry motor over though. that will hurt things.
I just make sure to raise and lower the motor a couple of times and pull the plug. and I remove my electronics when its cold out. dunno why, but I do.
one other thing regarding outboards and cold weather, particularly 2-stroke's with a carb. on cold dry days the air is denser, slightly leaning out your fuel/oil:air mixture. this condition allows for more rpms with less fuel, therefore less oil. I have ruined many a dirtbike motors on cold, winter days from overrevving. just don't run her wide-open and things will be fine.
Gotta agree with Kaz here.If you have ever replaced an impeller you will notice how the housing is made it will drain dry as soon as the lower unit leaves the water and is trimmed down. Wouldn't take but one spin and the fins would dry it completely like a squeegy and then possibly score the impeller.Maybe not but i wouldnt advise itQuote:
Originally Posted by kazualobzerver
Don't the newer 2 strokes compensate for the cold air? I thought the ratio of gas to oil was adjusted all the time and the air quality was one of the considerations.Quote:
Originally Posted by south point
with fuel injected models, absolutly. with older carburated models cold, dense air will slightly lean an engine. as long as you see a little smoke when you start it you should be fine, just not god to run em full throttle for an extended period of time.Quote:
Originally Posted by vic n
Thank you for pointing out that water pumps are made to drain out. I reckon I didn't consider that. I have replaced my impeller on my 07 yamaha 90, and didn't notice where the intake and outlet were located, but this makes sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogster1
so here's my question, if all the water drains out of the pump, the damn thing is dry EVERY time you start up. does it stand to reason that when you first crank the motor, it would take a few turns before water reaches the pump? If memory serves me right, the impeller in my yammer is a good 2-3 inches above the water level when my boat is afloat, and probably 9-10 inches above the water pickup on the lower unit. it usually takes 2-3 seconds after my motor is started for it to start peeing. I wonder how many times the impeller turns before it picks up water? especially one that hasn't been changed in years?
I'm for sure not trying to start any arguments here. I have always been told not to ever crank an outboard dry, and for the most part I see why. but then again, I know a guy that will crank his old eveinrude 50 until it fires before they ever leave home. completly dry. and he does this every time they take the boat out just to be sure its gonna start. to make matters worse, hes one of these guys who cranks it again at the boat ramp until it starts, then dead revvs the thing real good to "warm it up". he has had the boat for about 25 years and bought it new and not had a lick of trouble with it other than a broken sparkplug wire. (he does replace the impeller every few years) I am not saying I agree with this, just that this is how he does it and his old boat still runs right along side of my new one.
A couple of other items always leave your live wells in the open position in the winter. Trust me on this one it is cold and the fish will be fine while you are moving spots or on the ride home. This way any water in there will drain as soon as you pull the boat out of the water.
Always let your motor warm up to 120 degree's before taking off each time you start it. Always let the motor run when you get to your fishing spot until the temperature stablizes. Could take a minute or two but is a must do to protect it. This should be done all year long.
Pull your plug at the ramp to make sure no water is in the bildge area.
Store the motor in the trimmed down position.
Be safe! Winter fishing is fun.
Wasnt taken as an argument. It all makes sense and we all have our opinions and our way of doing things. I know on my Merc.that the cav plate is below water level when trimmed down and would think that the water would fill to the impellor when put in. As far as taking a second to start peeing after started i think thats just the time it takes it to push the water up the hose and out the pisser.I could be wrong and you may be right. I have seen people dry start thier motors at the ramp every time i go and i just cringe.It may not hurt them but in my way of thinking it sure has to shorten thier life span.Quote:
Originally Posted by south point