I recently looked a used boat with a 2010 50 HP 2-stroke Mercury. The engine took a few seconds of turning over to start and had to run a minute or two before it would go into gear. The temperature was around 88 today. Is this normal?
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I recently looked a used boat with a 2010 50 HP 2-stroke Mercury. The engine took a few seconds of turning over to start and had to run a minute or two before it would go into gear. The temperature was around 88 today. Is this normal?
The engine should go into gear when it's not running at all.
Do you mean it would die when shifting into gear? Did you pump up the bulb before starting it? It really doesn't sound like much of a problem if it ran okay once it warmed up.
Yeah, I meant it would die. Sorry about that, I am just excited about possibly my first boat. I didn't see him pump up the bulb. I was more worried about fishing in the winter, how it would be. Thanks for the reply.
I have the same motor, but a 2001 model. It's mainly used for duck hunting, and have run it with temps in the teens without problems.
Is it slow to warm up? Kind of reminds me of a Honda Atv
I have an 04 merc 60 2 stroke I bought new in 5/04. During the summer or warmer months, I do not have to use the choke on mine, and I don't have to crank it much either. It fires off very quickly IMO and will reach a smooth idle in no time. At 88 degrees, mine would start with no choke, and very little if any warm up before I get a smooth idle. during the colder months, like late fall/early spring, I have to use the choke for 30 seconds or so, not over one minute. I do make sure the bulb is good and tight, on the occassion I have forgotten to hit the bulb, it will act like what you described on the 50. Suggest you go back for a second test drive and make sure the bulb is good and tight. If it acts like it doesn't want to start, it may need some carb work done, you can check the plugs pretty easy while you're there too.
I have a 75 2 stroke 2003 and it is warm blooded. On a cold day i have to sit there pushing the key in every few seconds to keep it running, this goes on for about 3 min. then its fine.
Wilber, I had a very cold natured motor before and had a hard time keepin it running til it warmed up. then my mechanic
showed me how to crank it. turn the key to ON then push it in then crank the motor while you got the key pushed in. keep the key pushed in til the motor almost goes dead then release the key. When I first got the boat I would have to crank it 10-20 times before it would stay running, after he showed me this almost never had to crank more than once. hope this helps
Thanks Joe I will try that next time. Thanks Wilbur
Every motor is different even ones that are the same model. The older Merc's will start easier (the first time of the day) if you turn the key on, push it in and count to 10, then start it. When I say older I'm refering to 1990's and older.
So when the key is pushed in it keeps pumping fuel? I always thought that every push gave a squirt,that if you held it it still gave only one squirt. Its a 2003 75 merc 2 stroke.
Yes, it will continue to squirt out as long as you hold the key in.Quote:
Originally Posted by wilbur
My '94 Johnson 115 is the same way first starting it or in cold weather. Use the "count to 8-10" method as described above to properly engage the primer solenoid/choke system. Most outboards also benefit from being started in fast idle which will be either activated by lifting a lever or pressing in a round button on the control box prior to starting.
Got an 06 Merc. 40hp., when we first got it it did the same exact thing. It had been sitting alot and not used much at all since it was new. I have had the motor over a year now, and use it on a regular basis, it fires right up now with no choke or nothing. Make sure your bubble is tight too.
my 2005 Merc 40hp 2stroke usually starts on 1st or 2nd pull if i have it properly primed and the fuel bulb is tight. I usually let it warm up on fast idle for a few minutes or it will also kill sometimes when i put it into gear. Since mine is a carbureted motor rather than EFI, i believe this is just due to the fuel delivery pressure needing to build up so that unidorm fuel pressure can be delivered to each cylinder before any power can be geared to the prop
i tried that joe it works great,starts right up and stays running. Thanks WilburQuote:
Originally Posted by jusanothajoe
I thought keeping the key pushed in was for choking it only? The choke does not squirt fuel. It merely chokes the carbs. Joes response is the best medicine for your trouble. It's just like a riding mower, leave the choke engaged after it starts until it runs long enough for the choke to starting choking out the motor. Once released, it should run fine and be warmed up enough to shift into gear and run normal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill
Some motors use a little valve/pump to add fuel to the carb instead of restricting the air like a conventional choke.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crappie Reaper
Pushing the key in is for "choking" the carbs but the term is just a carry over from the old days when a butterfly type flap was used to choke the carbs. For many years now outboards have used enrichners to "choke" the carbs and they do squirt the fuel in rather than choke the carbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crappie Reaper