Lowrance Problem's

I have a HDS7 and a HDS5 on my G3.Was not having any problem's with them until I loaded the new 4.0 software in them.Now I am getting 1/4 to1/2 inch line's on the sonar screen running in the direction from 7 oclock to 1 oclock.Lowrance told me that was one of the problem's with that update and to put the 3.5 back in both unit's.Did that and I still have the line's,so then they said I was getting some sort of electrical interference from my boat,so while they were on the phone I unhooked everything on the boat from the batteries and drifted and still line's.Lowrance said I was still getting electrical interference,now how could that be with everything being disconnected?Came home and checked all wire's for voltage and continuity to the hull and found no short's,and even if there was one it would blow a fuse or trip a circuit breaker.I'm wondering if going to 4.0 and then back to 3.5 if it erased all of the 4.0.Any suggestion's?

Any way to do a full reset on the units?

pictures of what screen looks like would probally help

Did a full reset on both unit's bowman.I'm thinking if there like a computer and you put some new software in it the old software is still there.

Sorry,blueball I did not take any pic's,but as I said before the screen's are full of short line's running from 7 to 1 o'clock.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by striperking

Did a full reset on both unit's bowman.I'm thinking if there like a computer and you put some new software in it the old software is still there.

---

Did you lose your waypoints when you reset?

BigRiver,I didn't have any stored.

no idea but hope someone comes up with a solution for you soon, I have a 7 and 8 and did the upgrade with no problems.

interference problem: look at these.


*1.) If the leading edge of the prop is damaged from hitting rocks-stumps-logs or anything else it will need to be replaced.
*2.) Depending on how bad the damage to the prop is the armature can also be bent. Normally you can look at the very end of the armature where the prop is attached and rotate the prop at 10-20% power and see if the armature is bent. If so it will have to be replaced.
*3) On new trolling motors the armature can be manufactured out of round and the brushes will skip a spot and then arc real heavy when they make contact again. This will cause extreme noise in a trolling motor. Again the armature will have to be replaced for this issue.
*4.) Take the bow panel out of the boat and separate the transducer cable to one side of the bow bilge area and the 24/36volt power wires to the opposite side. Zip tie these so they will not move in rough water conditions.
*5.) There are several sources that the consumer can purchase a round rubber vibration damper for trolling motors. Most trolling motors will need 4-5 of these dampers to make any difference. This is not a fix; it’s a patch.
*6.) Minn-Kota should have an internal ground 18 gauge wire running from the negative side of the brush plate, in the actual motor, up through the shaft to the negative side of the directional indicator light in the head. In the head this wire has a 3amp fuse that will also need to be checked to insure it has not blown.
NOTE: DO NOT RUN A COMMON GROUND FROM THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF THE ENGINE BATTERY TO THE NEGATIVE OUTPUT SIDE OF THE TROLLING MOTOR 24/36VOLT SYSTEM. This will cause major electrolysis corrosion.
*7.) Tour addition Motor Guide trolling motors will need a special SS grounding strap installed in their trolling motor and again it will be attached on the negative side of the brush plate and will make contact firmly against the inside of the motor housing. This repair should only be performed by an authorized Motor Guide repair center.
NOTE: DO NOT RUN A COMMON GROUND FROM THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF THE ENGINE BATTERY TO THE NEGATIVE OUTPUT SIDE OF THE TROLLING MOTOR 24/36VOLT SYSTEM. This will cause major electrolysis corrosion.

Jason,Thank's for your reply and the recommendation's you posted,but none of this pertain's to my situation's as I stated in my original post while I was on the water I disconnected everything from my cranking battery and my TM battery and still had the same problem's as I was only drifting at that time.The only thing hooked up to a battery was my HDS unit's and only ran one of those at a time.My TM already has a internal ground in it but it wasn't even hoked up.

I don't understand the #6 note. The negative output side would be the output of the FETs switching pwm to the brush with the other brush referenced positive.

This is the circuit drawing of the US2 power and ground. I traced it out.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...2grounding.jpg