See Phil at ridgeland service ctr for this
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See Phil at ridgeland service ctr for this
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I checked mine the other day, BTW Phil looks like my proctologist.
I quirt new grease in mine before each trip.
Torch, i had that same flashback:eek:
I could have done without that mental image.Quote:
Originally Posted by torch
me too yikess!!
They B checking mine and greasing her up while she's in the shop
Triton said your boat is in the corner and already has cobwebs on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DonDon
I ain't doubting that Torch.Bout next Tuesday, they getting a call and if they ain't started on it. I'm taking the green cup and a Karaoke machine with me. Bet they'll get her done fast then
There ain't but one way and one way only to check your bearings and that's the Phil at Ridgeland Service Station way.
Wannabe...
An then it's the final step. Now ready to launch
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How much they hit you up for?
Awww EZ. You should have taken pics at every stop along the way. Would have been a good tutorial for folks.
Wannabe...
You are exactly right WB, If someone jacks your trailer up and shakes the wheel (I have seen this), hook up and go somewhere else. I have learned that when I take one down I am replacing the bearings and the seals. You are looking at 12 a wheel and just too much trouble to repack a set of bearings that have some age on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wannabe...
Makes me glad that Xpress uses the Maintenance Free Vortex Hubs and Spindles on all their aluminum trailers. 6 year 100,000 miles. No Maintenance. Priceless!!!!
Now that I see Phil's face he really does look like my proctologist!Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Z Poleholder
Yeah but they have had trouble with those hubs also.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRiverMarine
Mine may fall off tomorrow, but it's 11 years old and have only added grease once a year. I may jus pull em out Saturday and change em.
Got any detail on them hubs BRG?
In my experience....which, coincidentally, happens to be the only experience that counts....there's only 2 kinds of hubs....them that have exploded and them that are about to.
Wannabe...
amen!Quote:
Originally Posted by wannabe...
Dang Minner, you are lucky!Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnerman
Lucky is a word you could use. Ignernt is another.
Wannabe...
I think one thing that helps mine, is the fact it stays in my shop, which my kids keep at a comfortable 70* year round. It makes mrs minner crazy when she goes in there and it's cooler or warmer than the house. And the she gets the $250 power bill in addition to the house power bill.Quote:
Originally Posted by torch
i was with a major bearing dist for forty yrs and have replaced probably 1-200 sets of bearings for folks, at a price of course, that came in on the counter and had not a clue what they were doing. the major hurdle is removal and installation of the races. not so bad driving out, but you can damage a new one with one miss hit with your punch driving back in. back in those days there were only four or five popular sizes for boat trailers, lm67048/lm67010, lm11949/lm11910, etc, and i made a drive tool for each size race. some folks would not even replace the races which was nuts, you just transferred the pits and wear spots to the new bearings. never use anything but a hand pump to purge or add grease, you can blow a seal if your not careful and never know it til it flies apart doing 70 mph.
I haven't experienced any troubles. You can grease them if you want, and the spindles force the old grease back to the front of the hub through a grease vent in the center of the spindle keeping all the grease in the hub and bearings fresh instead of packing the old grease to the rear bearing. The vent pushes the old grease from the rear bearing forward and out to the front of the hub. If you do grease them, you just apply grease until you see fresh grease come out the front, wipe the old grease off and screw the grease cap back on. The grease cap does screw on keeping this a sealed system. No rear seals to go out. That's why the grease stays good for the 6 years or 100,000 miles. You do use a lithium based grease. I'll post a brochure on it ifn ya want, or I'll send ya one.
I'm sure as with anything, someone has had a problem. I'm just not aware of any. I'm NOT claiming to be an expert on trailer axles!!! I just know they work because I haven't had a problem with them EVER!!! And they are made in the USA. No warranty claims = good product. ;-)
I have been in the parts business for 32 years and have had my own shop for 25. I have farmers all the tme just slap a bearing in on an oldrace then wonder why the repair only lasted a month. I see people go crazy with the grease gun on bearing buddy's also and blow the seals out. If you push grease out the seal you have ruined the seal and water will get in.Quote:
Originally Posted by windstone
OK Windstone, you now have a purpose for being here. About time you did some contributing. Here's your assignment - Write an article and how to on Trailer bearing redos complete with pics. Make it a good one or we won't give you a passing grade.
Wannabe...
I think EZ took care of that already. TAKE IT TO PHIL AT RIDGELAND SERVICE CENTER!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Wannabe...
I repack mine twice a year. Now you all have got me so paranoid, I just ordered a complete hub assembly to keep in my boat just for insurance.
When you say repack, do you mean pull the bearing and repack with grease or a rebuild where the seals, races and bearings are replaced?
Wannabe...
[QUOTE=Wannabe...;1624108]OK Windstone, you now have a purpose for being here. About time you did some contributing. Here's your assignment - Write an article and how to on Trailer bearing redos complete with pics. Make it a good one or we won't give you a passing grade.
B, left all my stuff behind when i let that door hit me in the butt for the last time 8 yrs ago. someone needs to go see that phil guy and document every step and make it a sticky. looks like the guy knows what he is doing.
I fully intended to document this procedure but got a phone call, went into Phils office an was only gone for what seemed like a few minutes an when I got back to the shop the mec was greasing the zerk an I was ready.
Also check the air pressure both mine were low. One too low.
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take it all the way down and wash all the grease outof the bearings and check for wear. Inspect the races for pits and if everythin chcks out ok take bearings and repack them in grease and replace the seals.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wannabe...
You take a real chance of blowing out the seal on the back side of the hub geasing them too much. I was surprised to see that my spindles had the zerk in the end of it instead of a spring loaded buddy. This lets the new grease you add push the old grease, if any, to the outside of the bearings.Quote:
Originally Posted by crappiholic
Also, in my opinion, everyone greasing their bearings need to use the water proof kind. I keep a small grease gun in my boat filled with that, along with a couple extra tubes of it.
Another thing, I have repacked more bearings than my share, but now Phil gets the job. But if you do your own, a good tip I picked up this morning is: Get you a can of Winzer Brake Parts Cleaner. It'll clean those bearings so quick you'll be as shocked as I was. He first took the outside grease cap off, then squirted it good with this stuff and all the old grease went on a rag he had under it. After that, it was no problem seeing the keeper, or carter pin, and getting it off so the nut would come off. Pulled the front bearing out and squirted it, came clean in a jiffy. Pulled the wheel off, popped the seal off the back with a big screw driver and took the back bearing out and cleaned it the same way. Also used that stuff to clean the spindle, race and inside of the hub. I'm impressed with that stuff. Inspected the bearings and races, found to be in good shape. I was gone when he actually worked the grease into the bearings, but he did it with his hands and if anyone wants details on that I will explain later. I use an inexpensive cup that can be purchased at any local auto parts house that you place your clean bearing into the center, and it will force your new grease into the bearings. If you don't get the grease into the center of the bearing houseing, you have done nothing but caused trouble the first time you roll it on the highway. This gizmo has a zerk in the end of it where you squirt grease to fill the bearings. He didn't use his this morning because it didn't have waterproof grease and I won't use anything else. After you get your bearings full of grease, put the back one in the hub and carefully tap the seal into place. Put the wheel back on the spindle, place the front bearing on, put your keeper on if you have one of those types, tighten the nut hand tight, spin the wheel and make sure the nut is not loose, bend the keeper down or insert your carter pin. If you have the kine like mine, fill the cavity with more grease then replace the cap, if you have the spring loaded kind put it on and fill it until the spring starts to move.
Note: It's a whole nuther ball game if you need new bearings and races. Never, never, never use new bearings with old races. This requires way more detail, so, Just go to see Phil.. Under $100 and you are fixed up..
I'll field questions, but allow at least 2 weeks for an answer.....
x2Quote:
Originally Posted by torch
Lucas makes a Red N Tacky grease that is water proof.Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Z Poleholder
Oil and water don't mix....therefore ain't all grease water proof (He said in his best DD impersonation).
Was just wondering if you did a complete rebuild everytime Speck. Seems it would be overkill even though you trailer a bunch.
Wannabe...
Oil and water won't exactly mix, but water will somewhat mix with regular grease and turn milky and will burn up in a second. If your seal is going bad and you just have regular grease, you better be close to home.. real close..Quote:
Originally Posted by Wannabe...
right on the button ez, i have always had a problem with the wording "water proof grease". my belief is there are greases that resist water/moisture better than others but i kinda balk on the term water proof grease. there is a grease made by lubriplate i use to sell for trailer applications. i guess i shoulda kept all my trailer stuff but at that time i never thought i would ever own another boat. oh, thanks wannabe!!Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Z Poleholder
Dadburn it E-Z...I said "in my best DD impersonation".
Wannabe...