Trolling motor popping breakers on high!

Minn Kota 70# Edge foot control. Has anyone had any problems with the Edge blowing the circuit breakers on high. I know this is a sign of pulling too many amps. Here is my setup two batteries two 40amp 24 v circuit breakers 4 cables #4wire ran to a plug that switches it to 24v when i installed the motor i checked the plug going to the trolling motor it was 25v it only does this when it's running on high but it seems the batterys don't last as long as it should. Put an armature in a while back but all seems free and it was ordered from Minn Kota. All connections are clean. What is the amperage draw on this motor on high to low no load and loaded in the water.Cub48

Just went out and checked amp draw with no load and it was 1.8 to 2.0 amps on all speeds.Cub48

I am having a similar problem with an Edge 45 12 V FC. It only does it when I run it on high for an extended time, prolly over 20 ot 30 minutes. I did as much reading and research as I could, ended up cleaning the contacts, checking the connections, etc. I thought at 1st I needed to replace the wiring with 6 gage as I had installed the Edge to replace an older MG and just used the same wiring which I assumed to be too small, but, when I actually checked it I had 6 gage which appears to be in good condition. When the breaker tripped the 1st time, the positive wire was extremely hot near the battery. I tested it Friday with a long run on high, after cleaning contacts, etc., by running it for a little over 30 minutes on high. The wire still got hot, but, not as hot as before, and the breaker did not trip. I spoke with a TM service person and he said it was common for the wire to get very warm, but, the breaker should not trip. I didn't check the amp load, but, will if problem continues. I think it's just the nature of the Edge to do this when ran on high for very long? Maybe some of the experts will see our posts and join in with opinions and advice. Batteries seem to hold up well, the one I used for the test on Friday still had 65% remaining after running for slightly over four hours, at least 1/2 of that was on high? Should get a couple days fishing if running on normal, 2 or 3, fishing speed.

Both of you should have at least a 50 amp breaker. For a straight 24V system (batteries wired in series) you only need 1 breaker on the positive lead at the batteries.

remove the top of the trolling motor hood. Check where the wires go down the shaft. See if the wires are tied in a knot, which is sort of a strain relief. This knot may be getting hot and the insulation of the wires may be melting and causing the wires to short against each other.
Post back with what you find.

What Super Bill said.

Mine has a 40amp breaker on each battery has 4 wires running up to the master plug the master plug switches the 2 batteries to 24v. I checked it this morning and had over 25V on the 2 wires going to the motor. Yesterday the motor tripped the breakers after running on high for about less than 5 min. I cleaned the terminals a few weeks ago and they are still clean when i took them off yesterday. It will run on 3 and not trip this motor is less than a year old. Cub48

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Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill

Both of you should have at least a 50 amp breaker. For a straight 24V system (batteries wired in series) you only need 1 breaker on the positive lead at the batteries.

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Bill is right....your breaker is too small for a 24 volt TM

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Originally Posted by "G"

Bill is right....your breaker is too small for a 24 volt TM

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its too small for a 12 volt

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Originally Posted by wilbur

its too small for a 12 volt

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You could have a weak breaker. Change it with the 50-60 amp and you'll be fine.

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Both of you should have at least a 50 amp breaker. For a straight 24V system (batteries wired in series) you only need 1 breaker on the positive lead at the batteries.

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Mine is 12 volt, only use 1 battery at at time. Only the last foot or so of the positive cable gets hot, negative gets warm, but, not hot. Single breaker on positive lead, about 8 inches from battery. Is it normal for the positive wire to get hot near the battery. I never had this problem with the old MG TM I just replaced, but, it was only 34 lb. thrust, the Edge is 45? Thanks for the replies and advice.

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You could have a weak breaker. Change it with the 50-60 amp and you'll be fine.

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Bill, wouldn't it possibly cause the wires to get even hotter before the breaker trips by causing it to take longer to trip if you used a larger breaker? Mine is 50 Amp, I'd be concerned about a larger one causing a meltdown or even a small fire? Only place the wire gets hot is near the battery, I've checked the head, the splicing block, and various places along the wire, just the last couple of feet get hot. Heck, it may be OK now, I ran it on high Friday for over 30 minutes ans the breaker didn't trip, wire got very warm, but, not actually hot. OBTW, I asked the local dealer about ordering a different boat than the ones they have in stock and was told that if they ordered just one boat for me, I'd have to pay the shipping, they may not be a regular Xpress dealer, beats the stuff outta me. There's another down in NC near Lake Gaston, that I'm going to check with. BPS is 30 minutes from me and they have what I like in stock in a Tracker, but, I've been leaning toward Xpress.

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Originally Posted by Redy2Fish

Bill, wouldn't it possibly cause the wires to get even hotter before the breaker trips by causing it to take longer to trip if you used a larger breaker? Mine is 50 Amp, I'd be concerned about a larger one causing a meltdown or even a small fire? Only place the wire gets hot is near the battery, I've checked the head, the splicing block, and various places along the wire, just the last couple of feet get hot.

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That's the reason you have to make sure your wire is large enough to be fused at 50A. In normal electrical wiring you choose your fuse based on the wire size and the electrical load on the circuit. The fuse has to be large enough to handle the load, and small enough to protect the wire. If you can't do both, you need bigger wire.

Heat at the battery end is normal, but you may be able to reduce it by making sure that the battery posts and terminals are spotlessly clean and that the terminals are tight.

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Originally Posted by cub48

Just went out and checked amp draw with no load and it was 1.8 to 2.0 amps on all speeds.Cub48

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You can't measure the current draw from a variable speed TM at any setting but 100% with a conventional meter. The current is pulsed at lower settings, which the meter can't respond to accurately.

If the wire is truly #4 gauge, you should have no problem with current. I don't understand the switch wiring (4 wires) , so I am guessing it is either 12/24 select or A/B select.

Red, black, orange, white-Thats a Ranger set-up. The jumpers built in the plug. Honestly, if you have to run wide open that much, you should look at a bigger motor. IMHO which I have plenty of

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That's the reason you have to make sure your wire is large enough to be fused at 50A. In normal electrical wiring you choose your fuse based on the wire size and the electrical load on the circuit. The fuse has to be large enough to handle the load, and small enough to protect the wire. If you can't do both, you need bigger wire.

Heat at the battery end is normal, but you may be able to reduce it by making sure that the battery posts and terminals are spotlessly clean and that the terminals are tight.

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14 foot wide body, heavy jon boat, prolly less than 12 feet of 6 gage attached to the Minn Kota Edge 45 wiring with a splicing block. Terminal and all are squeaky clean now. I think except for the long runs in one of the little lakes I like to fish, it is OK. Main concern was if it is normal for the wires close to battery to get hot, apparently it is. Thanks all for the responses.