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I have been reading a lot and have noticed a lot of people are using fuel/water seperators to help curb fuel/water/ethanol? Problems. I have a 30hsp yamaha tiller. I disconnect and burn fuel after each trip. Can I still install this into my fuel line? And if so, what avg cost? I have seen one in cabelas mag. Bout 80.00.
Tom
Look around, Walmart may have them for $25. If the filter is white ,cool, if not paint it white or mount it in a spot that does not get any sun. The sun can get a black filter very warm. Sierra Marine has them , do a search for mail order boat stuff. Attwood, Seasense, i'm sure there are others. good luck
I can't comment on the filter, but my mechanic got on me about running the motor dry after every use. He said the in doing that you also run the motor without oil for a short time, and if it has multiple carbs one might go dry before the other and cause other damage. Made sense to me, but I did just that for years with my smaller motors. Just some input, and I'm sure we'll get a comment or two.
This is what I bought. $30 and you get one spare filter with it. Comes with the fuel hose barb fittings. Trailer Parts Superstore - Water Separating Fuel Filter Bonus Pack Kit #033322-10
Skeetbum is right. Some motors ( big ones ) do not have a fuel joint to disconnect. The fuel line is clamped.
I haven't installed mine yet but I paid $36 for the separator and 1 filter and another 6$ for the brass fittings. I wish I had seen this earlier.
Whatever ya spend will be less than a trip to a mechanic to get cleaned and lost days on the water.
Sure you can, if you are disconnecting the line from the motor, then u should see no difference in anything that u are experiencing now.Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyboyrn
The only one I could find locally was a Yamaha brand kit that was selling for $80. Went to iBoats and got the comparable Sierra (made by Teleflex) kit for less than 40 shipped. All I needed to pick up were two 3/8" barbed fittings and I was good to go. I switched to the grey fuel lines and replaced the priming bulb last year when I added the filter just because it hadn't been done since the boat was new in '94.
I got the moeller( I believe it is )I spent a little extra money and got one with the clear site bowl underneath the filter, to where as I can visually check it and drain if needs to be without replacing the filter.
The moeller is a great unit as it replaced the Racor clear site bowl and you don't have to replace the filter element to see if you're pulling water. They are known to develop air leaks at the stopcock. If you start to experience fuel delivery issues check the filter bowl for bubbles.
Thanx for the info Dutch, will do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch552
I got my sierra at NAPA....
Rickie
Does it matter if it goes before the priming bulb or after? I have to cut tubing anyway, just wanting to make sure I do this right.
Tom
Have done it both ways depending upon how the lines are plumbed in the boat with zero problems. I put mine on the tank side of the bulb this time because my '94 Johnson likes the bulb as close to the motor as possible and I had a good location to mount the unit in the bilge compartment. The argument used to be that if you plumbed it after the priming bulb that you would prime the filter when you primed the outboard. It primes the same regardless in reality.
Mine is between tank and bulb. I also pre-fill my filter before the install. I have a question, do you have a built-in tank? If you are using a 6gal. portable tank then the seperator is not really necessary, but it won't hurt.