I'm talking 1/48 oz and smaller. PM'd nightprowler and he doesn't do them; ditto for grousefly. Thought this might be easier than approaching guys one by one. Would like a y-guard, but would look at brush guard.
Thanks.
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I'm talking 1/48 oz and smaller. PM'd nightprowler and he doesn't do them; ditto for grousefly. Thought this might be easier than approaching guys one by one. Would like a y-guard, but would look at brush guard.
Thanks.
pbug doesnt either
I've made 1/32 oz. but nothing smaller. I don't think it's the weight that matters as much as the hook size. A #6 sickle hook should work fine with a YG-4 weedguard. You could trim the Y guard down if you thought it was too long. You'll probably need to find someone on here to make you a custom mold but that shouldn't be too big of a problem. I'm pretty sure you will need to epoxy the Y guard to make sure it stays put. Just not enough lead to hold.
Never seen a weedless that small before but I'm not saying their not out there somewhere. Have never seen a mold for them though
Thanks for responding. I kinda figured it might be tuff. Interesting question though--what does a 1/32 from a collar mold weigh if you didn't do or cut off the collar? Gotta be less than 1/32, but don't know if it's half.
theres a post in here somewhere about making rgular jigheads weedless..with a wire..
Depends on the mix of lead you're using. I'd say less than half, cause the heads are tiny compared to the barb section.Quote:
Originally Posted by fished-out
Check out the post on a fly tying forum or look it up through Google. There are ways to make a loop out of mono and it is held in place by the barb. You can use a heavier mono and form it in the shape of the Y, use single strand and wrap it in place. On that light of a jig it will not take much to deflect it. If interested let me know and I will try to figure a way to post better instructions.
There is probably not enough lead on a 1/48 or smaller head to secure a Y guard well. Ive had problems with them if not seated as deep as you can coming loose in regular jigs heads. I have terrible luck with weedless jigs. And one of the conclusions i came to was that for better hooking i prefer a #2 at smallest for hooking epically with the Y guard. Id recommend you just drill out a few little heads and glue in a few normal weedguard fibers and try them before you buy a bunch.
heres what I've done using 20lbs mono line. I don't thread it threw the eye I just tie the mono off at the head of the jig after wrapping and tieing off my chenille body.
YouTube - ‪Fly Tying Tips & Techniques : How to Attach a Weed Guard in Fly Tying‬‏
Don't want to really open that box about weight, but all I will say is most never weight what they say they do unless you get small and the smaller they are the closer they are to what it's supposed to be. Size is more important then.
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Here's how you can make some easy and cheap. Take a tiny drill bit and drill a hole on at 30-40 degree angle down to toward the bend behind eyelet. Fit a piece of mono line {your choice} into hole...add superglue and trim to length. You can experiment with the mono to find a pound test that works for you.
The one's I've experimented with come in at about 1/40oz - per my digital scale w/ .001 oz accuracy. I did the clipping/trimming w/ a utility knife.Quote:
Originally Posted by fished-out
This w/ some purchased 1/32 oz barbed jigs....
UG
This could work with heavy enough mono; ever try clipping the loop? Does it stay in place near the barb?Quote:
Originally Posted by njones
Thanks; thought I might be able to modify a weedless 1/32 to get the drop speed I want. I realize there are other ways to modify drop speed (bigger plastic, etc), but I wanted it with a particular plastic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Grump
Good idea, just not sure I have a drill bit small enough in diameter to work on a 1/64 oz jig head. Have to look. Worth a try.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Lip RIPPERS