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I inherited a Motorguide Pro Series 60 trolling motor and it has a switch for operating in a 12 or 24 volt mode. I plan on removing the toggle switch and installing the constant on toggle switch in the same location. Would the speed be affected if the motor was operated in 12v only? I normally have two batteries in parallel anyway and it wouldn't be any trouble to wire it 24v.
Just looking at my options. Rollcaster.....................
Power is power. However it takes 1/2 the current @ 24v to produce the same work as it does at 12v, but it takes 2 batteries all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollcaster
P=IxE Power is equal Current (I) times the voltage (E)
Thanks, Cane Pole. That's what I thought, I just needed it confirmed.
I had a 24v 71# 5 speed (not digital) I hated that TM. It just wouldn't go slow enough. I bought a 12v 55# variable (digital) and it's great. I know it's not apples to apples. When I had the 24v, my outboard moter battery died out on the water. When I moved one of my batteries to the OB, the TM wouldn't work with just the 1 remaining battery. With a 12v TM, I can switch a battery to the OB and keep on fishing. Personally, I like the 12v system. I still run the 2 TM batteries so I'm not saving any money. I did give up some power in the switch but I'm glad I made the switch.
Just food for thought.
True. But a 12 volt motor of the same thrust will run much hotter than a 24v motor, thereby shorting the life of the motor. Ohms law.Quote:
Originally Posted by crappiemax
I have to have my MK rebuilt every year... it is 24 but that is the cost of doing business fishing on a small river....
To answer - 24v all the way, you just have to learn how to feather the switch to go as slow as you want to.
Read this:
Peukert's law - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
A 24 volt SYSTEM is slightly more efficient than a 12 volt SYSTEM.
I don't remember this formula. :o Carbon dating my school days would render 50 years + or -.:oQuote:
Originally Posted by PanMan_VA
Efficiency is the name of the game, no doubt.
You all remember this:
Electrical current causes heating. Motors, wiring and controllers will all get hot and waste power. The heat wasted is proportional to the square of the current multiplied by the resistance. Other things being equal, that would cause losses on 24v to be half those on 12v, but of course it's more complicated than that.
Agreed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cane Pole
There is no way to keep it simple. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by PanMan_VA
Cane Pole, are you saying you strongly recommend the 24v. even for the half-day fisherman?
Actually you are all wrong. Current and electricity are based on how much SMOKE is contained in the wires and motors and such.
If you have ever shorted something out and you let out all the smoke. It will then not operate. So the relationship is undeniable. Electricity will only work if the smoke stays inside the wires.
I have proven this theory so many times it is not a theory anymore. It is now a fact :rolleyes::rolleyes:
Now that's keeping it simple, keep the smoke in the wires. I'm about to fall off my chair. LMAO!!!!!!!!
"gene"
.
No. Not at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabowman
We were just shop talking about motor efficiency. Practically and common sense comes into play.
12v is less efficient than 24v which is less efficient than 36v, etc.
For example: a 12v motor could be made to produce the same torque as a 36v motor, but everything would have to be bigger to carry the required current.
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st...0001&langId=-1
The chart only shows length vs thrust. However the mass of the boat also comes into play. You will have to ask PanMan about thrust and mass.
What he said. There are drawbacks to 24 and 36 volt systems. The two biggest are cost and fault tolerance. If you lose a single cell in a battery for a 24 or 36 volt system, you lose the whole system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cane Pole
Also keep in mind that adding thrust will only produce a modest, if any, increase in speed (that is another conversation). The main benefit of higher voltage systems is increased running time. A similar benefit can be had with carrying additional batteries for a 12 volt system.
Most of us do not have big, heavy boats so a 12 volt system serves us fine. I have a 24 volt system but that is because the features I wanted on a particular brand trolling motor were not available with a 12 volt system.
Ok hays, :)Quote:
Originally Posted by hays47
You need to expand your horizons and try the fuse theory.
Thinking about a new 24 volt 70# thrust Minnkota Terrova I Pilot. Currently have a 12volt Auto Pilot 55# with two batteries in parrallel. Really want the I Pilot any input would be appreciated. Also thinking about a Ranger 617 Fisherman. Will I need anything bigger than a 70# thrust? Thanks.
Just curious as to your comment about thrust being related to speed? I alway's assumed the higher the thrust, the higher the speed. Please explain, as I am confused. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by PanMan_VA
Some of the information registered but it seems the most important issue may be my preference. I may be leaning to the 12volt system for for the simplicity of using my existing setup. But, I am wanting to upgrade to a MK Pilot system in the future, and I will eventually have to upgrade to a 24 system. Thanks again to all the post. Rollcaster..................
I have had both 12 volt and 24 volt systems. Is the motor you speak of a foot controlled? If so you may want to leave it as is and utilize your 12/24 setup. You will get more speed control that way. Also I have not had any luck in using a constant on switch with a cable driven trolling motor. It will turn on it's on from the rotation of the prop if you do not keep your foot on the pedal. I have seen peolpe make a brace to keep the pedal from moving when their foot is off the pedal. All this being said If I were to choose between 12 or 24 I would go with 24. My last boat had a trolling motor like yours and on windy day's the highest 12 volt setting was not enough to move the boat. If you go with 24volt and it is moving the boat to fast you can alway's drag a chain(don't let Canepole know) or a sock to slow you down.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollcaster
Well, if theys had Terrovas when I got me v2, I woulda got one of them.
It is the pay and play principle, not unlike the Peter principle.
Maybe HB will sponsor me so I can brag on how great ALL their chit is and I won't have to buy nothing, just perform the stump magic along with my pal Wally. ;)
There is a maximum speed for any displacement hull. Faster than that and you are semi-planing or planing. The thrust vs speed curve for a displacement hull is not linear. It is exponential and takes much more thrust for a very small gain in speed as you approach the maximum speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by slimeyslab
An example:
If your boat will do 3 mph with 50 pounds of thrust, it will not do 6 mph with 100 pounds of thrust. The actual maximum speed will be about 3.5 mph to 4 mph with 100 pounds of thrust.
The length of the hull at the waterline has the biggest affect on speed. The longer the length, the faster the boat is likely to go with all other things being close to equal.
That makes absolutely no since to me, but not much on here does. Thanks for answering my question though..lol..It's nice to be in the company of such smart people, kind of makes you fill all warm inside, :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by PanMan_VA
Skip to the speed limits on electric power paragraph.
The Electric Trolling Motor for the Birding Jonboat
Some of the statements are not necessarily true because of the new brushless type motors, the Kort Nozzle, electronics and battery technology.
I was gonna build one (electric power) , but the cost is astronomical for the outcome (speed).
They are coming.......