Weight vs. Bouyancy

A simple jig I've been working on for awhile - with the idea being to make an attractive lead-free jig with the weight on the shaft of the hook rather than the nose, so it'll sink horizontally instead of nose-down.

The jig uses a clear glass bead, a metal weight bead, a small metal crimp, and a loop of frayed-out nylon twine for the tail. Now, when I weigh these on a powder scale my 1/16 and 1/8 oz. jigs come out just a couple of grains lighter than the same hook with the same size lead-heads poured on it.

If a chenille-body jig is tied onto a lead-head, or if a soft plastic jig like a swimmin' minnow is added, then the lead-head lures weigh quite a bit more than my jigs. But I don't think the weight of the soft materials makes the jigs sink any faster or deeper, because on their own those materials float.

I'm thinking that the total weight only affects how far a jig can be cast, while the weight when it's under water, as well as water resistance (shape) determines how fast and deep a jig will sink. Am I all wet on this?

http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/u...s/12122009.jpg

Great looking jig! I might have to get some pointers from you soon on how to make something like this, looks like they are trying to ban lead tackle under 1/2 oz in Washington and lead free jigs are just too expensive for the amount of tying I do.

With all the lead bans starting to enter the picture I think you might have a jig of the future.I like it!!

Innovative, way ahead of the curve. Good looking jig.

Nope, not all wet... Think you hit it on the nose, both are a factor.

Shape - The more streamlined it is, the faster it will sink.... think darter head vs. a ball head. The darter would cut through the water with much less resistance, similar to the nose of an airplane. If your jig still falls a little nose down, it may be simply from the shape because the bead is nice and smooth and the tail sorta acts like a kite tail keeping it straight in the water.

Bouyancy (sp?) - Anything that traps air bubbles will sink much slower. In the spring when fish are shallow, I love to use bucktail jigs. They aren't any harder to throw, but they will sink much slower than a hackle or bou tail.

I saw you post that pic up in the pics thread and think it is a very cool idea. You could also put the tung. bead at the front and that may appeal to fisherman who are used to the old fashioned way but are forced into the lead free fishing. ;)

Thanks for the comments. Yes, I saw I'd misspelled "buoyancy", but the website wouldn't let me edit the title.

Tungsten is expensive, so I'm not using it. The weight bead is nickel-plated brass and the material cost of the whole jig is, literally, pennies. This idea doesn't compete with custom jigs, but it's a possible improvement and replacement for the mass produced chenille-bodied maribou crappie jig (doll fly) we all know so well.

I think you're onto something...very nice look. Could even powder coat the metal beads...good job.

DEFINITELY something different....and it should catch plenty of fish.;)

Steelhead jigs have been made with beads instead of lead for a LONG time. I love beads it is just hard to find the right ones that will go over the hook easily. If you really want to balance the jig out if you find it still falls nose down simply put a small metal bead toward the bend of the hook.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...ppieflies1.jpg
These flies fall flat and fish really well. Trout love them. They are even heavy enough to possibly cast and fish shallow on spawning beads. The beads are Hematite so they have some weight to them.

Want to really make them float tail down or more level use a hallow metal bead in the front. Might even get the bead to go up the shank to the eye if you are really lucky, or crafty. :cool:

fish 4 all - Thanks for posting those steelhead jigs, I sure didn't know about those and they give me some new ideas.

Hematite might be better for weight beads than the brass/nickel beads I'm using. I did some reading, and hematite is magnetized iron ore that polishes up well. It's good and heavy, and it's cheap.

As you say, it's real hard to find beads in the right sizes for jig-making. I'm having to deal with companies from the Czech Republic to Shanghai (couldn't do it without the internet), and the various sizes I need are real oddballs in the jewelery-making trade.

Worst of all, in the bead-stringing business sizes aren't very exact or consistent - and I'm mostly having to work with people in that business who have NO idea what I'm talking about and don't see the importance when it comes to exact measurements. "Lots may vary from batch to batch" - aargh.
:)

I go through a lot of beads trying to find ones that will go over the hook. Only about 30% will do it when I buy from the local stores. Getting a business to understand what I need is impossible most of the time. Shipwreck beads is about the only one that has ever taken the time to even try to understand.

What a outstanding idea...looks fantastic.

really nice jigs

sam very good looking jig .

It's good to think out side the box so to speak and if you like ideas like these then you probably should look at some fly boards and some have a lot of pictures and how to. You can get a lot of great patterns from fly tying even if you don't tie flies.

Nice looking idea you have,
Skip

For plastic beads use a real small drill clamped with vise grips turn bead onto drill to open up. Suprisingly little has to come out to enable bead to slip over hook. Have not found a way to do metal or glass beads yet.

This way works for a small amount probably would be tedious for commercial tying.

darn exactly what i was gonna say hays... id just get local beads at craft store and drill em if needed. great looking jig tho sam

I don't know if that will work with the Hematite beads but is worth a try.

I think that this forum has shown me more ways to save money and have a better understanding of what to do, then any that I have ever visited.Great bunch of guys and gals,I think maybe the smartess people in the world,lol.