Humminbird 718-Shuts off by its self-WHY?

Been looking at my new HB 718 trying to decide what approach to take to fix my problem. During the first trip it was shutting off after 10 ~ 30 seconds. But after continuous turning back on it stay on for 30~45mins until I was finished playing around and get familar with all the buttons. I did noticed that it would shutoff everytime I turned on the bilge pump. Dont know how this figures into the whole problem.

Used it again today and it continued to have problems staying on.

One thing I did notice is that it will run in SIMULATION mode and not turn off. This is what is confusing to me, I understand voltage and current, so I dont believe a short circuit is being created anywhere or the wiring is incorrect.

The only theory at this time is that during use the transducer it draws more current. Is it possible my 12v Marine battery cant supply the current or voltage, I can run my TM most of the day before I notice a power reduction.

Is it possible I would need a battery just for it?

Is it possible the angle of the transducer is not parrell enough to the ground and this causes it shuts off?

Like I said, I have not had any issues with this battery running the trolling motor or starting the motor ( 25hp outboard ).

The only thing I can think to do is to wire direct to the battery and go back out and give it a try..........any other ideas? I do have a lawn mower battery I can take it on the boat and try as an alternate source.....Maybe thats an option?

Thanks for the help

Seeing how it cuts out when turning on the bilge pump. You could be experiencing a voltage drop between it's source of power and the unit. Wire it direct to the battery, using a new inline fuse of course, and see if that takes care of your problem, I'd bet it does.

Thanks for the fuse notice, what size fuse?

Under the Alarm menu, set the Low Voltage Alarm setting to Off. I think your unit might be shutting down due to a drop in voltage and it may be set too high.

This, however might be an indication of a bad battery. Might want to check into it.

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Originally Posted by kellerqx

Thanks for the fuse notice, what size fuse?

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About a 3 amp fuse.

The low voltage alarm is just that, an alarm. It doesn't control at what voltage your unit shuts off, it's just to warn you about getting below a voltage that may not start your motor .

I knew that. Had a bwain fart. LOL

If you're dropping below 10V, its gonna shut down.

mine does that if the battery is low charge your battery or get a new battery.

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Originally Posted by sticko

mine does that if the battery is low charge your battery or get a new battery.

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Same here.

I'm guessing that I would NOT be able to see the lower voltage results when I run my trolling motor?

I dont remember a "low voltage" warning on the monitor before shutting down. Maybe I already have this turned off, but like you said this would only assist in the analysis, not the performance. I will try the direct connect with the fuse and then maybe a new battery. Any suggestions on a battery, I know this is a controversial topic ........anywhere from wal-mart to high dollar, the opinions range.

Sounds like you may be using your trolling motor battery to power your F/F. If you have a separate starting battery, I'd use that. Chances are it will keep a more constant voltage. I just use Wally World batteries, seem okay to me.

cant go wrong with optima batteries.

Make sure that you get a MARINE DEEP CYCLE battery, not just a automotive type battery.

A dirty, loose or corroded connection can also cause that.

So would a spot in the wiring that has had some of the individual strands broken. I would test it first by wiring straight to the cranking battery (if you have one), than try it on that lawn mower battery to see if it powers up and stays on. Be sure to use an in-line 3-Amp fuse to help keep your boat and battery safe. Install new connectors on the power wires when you do this. I prefer to solder all connections (including connectors) to head off future wiring problems as well.

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Originally Posted by Humminbird_Greg

So would a spot in the wiring that has had some of the individual strands broken. I would test it first by wiring straight to the cranking battery (if you have one), than try it on that lawn mower battery to see if it powers up and stays on. Be sure to use an in-line 3-Amp fuse to help keep your boat and battery safe. Install new connectors on the power wires when you do this. I prefer to solder all connections (including connectors) to head off future wiring problems as well.

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Your are a smart feller.;)

Having to rewire a boat because the unsoldered connections failed made me a smart feller.

Experience is the mother-of-all teachers!

ok, just wanted to provide an update. I did the direct wire to the battery and the results were good. The FF stayed on and didnt shut off. So now I guess rewiring is the next step or live with an odd cable running thru the boat.

So, here is my setup. A 14' smokercraft,the electricals include the TM, bilge pump, live well pump, as well as the mandatory lighting. I have two ring terminals to connect to the battery for these, and the OB motor is another set. So if I straight wire it (FF), that will be a total of 4 ring terminal to each post, which already looks bad. Is there a way to use some type of terminal buss bar so I can easily connect and disconnect the battery? Or do I need to learn to live with all these connections at the battery? Please advise.

By the way, the wiring is smokercraft original ( 96 model , not sure if that make a difference for my decision.

Cabelas sells a Johnny Ray terminal block, it allows four separate terminals. Go to Cabelas and look up battery accessories. Or you may want to consider a new fused switch panel.

These are a good solution to the small gauge wires Battery Terminals

I like to run about a #10 marine wire to one of these Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block w/ Cover - 5025 - BoatersWorld.com from each terminal, then route that to each circuit except the motor. Just locate the block someplace convenient.