Stuck brass nut with limited access - any hints?

Fuel line at the carb has a leak. Steel fuel line goes into a brass fitting, screwed into a steel fitting, screwed into the side of a 2bbl carb. Turning one fitting turns the other. The Float box (not sure what it's called but I think it's where the float s are) is made such I can't get a good shot at the brass nut.

So far I've tried a line wrench, channel locks (not enough room/grip), and vice grips (not enough room/grip), while holding the other nut (over an inch ..maybe 26mm?). Feels like someone used glue or red locktight on it. Can't apply heat as it's a fuel line.

I'm at the point of hitting it with liquid wrench and tapping with a hammer every day or so...

Thoughts? don't feel safe to take the boat out with a leak like that.
Thank you in advance.

Jermo,
When tightening or breaking line fittings you always need two wrenches. Can you perhaps undo the other end of the steel line from the fuel pump or filter and then remove the whole carb and then be able to reach the unreachable. I would definately not run that motor like that, you'd be asking for trouble. When you get it off, use a little Teflon tape or Teflon thread sealant on the threads to put it back together. Good luck.

"gene"

What about a pair of gear wrenchs? Access enough for that?

Wannabe...

barely enough for 2 wrenches. I started with a line wrench and adjustable. The brass already rounded off from what I presume was attempts to remove.

Lil liquid wrench with the adjustable wrench and a pair of channel locks did the trick. Took overnight soak to get it..

The threads have what appear to be RED LOKTIGHT :eek: , not sure what peeps were thinking.

Next challenge will be to cut the flare off to replace the nut. Debating to put a nipple at the carb and bridge with rubber fuel line and hose clamps... Can I do that on a boat?

I've not taken the larger nut off to see what I'll need to fix that. I'm expecting an oring or gasket of some type.

One of the guys at advanced Auto identified the "hanging wires" as being for the "electronic choke" which isn't on the carb. That will be a future scavenger hunt I guess...one adventure at a time ;)

At least this will get it safe to operate. I have a meeting tonight so I'll get to work on it more Friday night. Hope to gave her ship shape for the weekend but I'm not going to push safety aside for operations.

I really appreciate yalls help.

it's a 1994 OMC 3.0GS 4CYL 2bbl I/O. I'll take this fixit opportunity to stuff clean rags down the intake and coat it all down with carb cleaner :) dirt around the intake always makes me nervous.
Jer

edit: no room for gear wrenches. ty for the suggestion tho..

For the life of me I can't remember the name of these wrenches I have made by Craftsman. They are made just for the work you are doing. The are 6pt box end wrench that have a slot in them so the can slip of the pipe and then on the nut. They have saved me many times for work just like what you are doing. I've got one in my hand right now but all it says is Craftsman and the sizes. Anyone know what I'm talking about.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IBNFSHN

For the life of me I can't remember the name of these wrenches I have made by Craftsman. They are made just for the work you are doing. The are 6pt box end wrench that have a slot in them so the can slip of the pipe and then on the nut. They have saved me many times for work just like what you are doing. I've got one in my hand right now but all it says is Craftsman and the sizes. Anyone know what I'm talking about.

---

sounds like a tubing wrench to me that's the way they're made.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IBNFSHN

For the life of me I can't remember the name of these wrenches I have made by Craftsman. They are made just for the work you are doing. The are 6pt box end wrench that have a slot in them so the can slip of the pipe and then on the nut. They have saved me many times for work just like what you are doing. I've got one in my hand right now but all it says is Craftsman and the sizes. Anyone know what I'm talking about.

---

Here they are. Craftsman 4 pc. Standard Flare Nut Wrench Set

I always called them line wrenches and everyone understood me. And yes, you can replace with rubber if there are no friction points and you use proper connections, no cheesy stuff. If you have a friction point, Slide a section of bigger hose over it before connecting, and add a spot of silicone if necessary to hold it there. Worked for me once. Good luck.

Thanks for the help guys. I got the fitting loose found there wasn't a replacment readily available. The entire section of line is avail for about $26 so I cleaned it all up, replaced the fuel filter, put fuel friendly teflon tape on both pieces and re-assembled. No leaks. When I take the boat down for winter I'll replace the line. I also need to research trailer maintenance because I don't see how to get at the bearings..etc. They appear to have some type of plastic cover over them and the wheel lugs are rusted.

Do we have access to a liquid material that dries like wax? When I was in the service we used it on bolts/nuts/screws to keep things from being rusted in place. Would also keep the heads from rusting if it was a non-painted surface. mil spec 85054 from memory but that's probably wrong.

AML Guard is what you're referring to I think.

I have no idea where to get it. LPS 3 is commonly available and I find it to work really well, although it won't form a waxy hard coating like AML Guard will.

Jermo, The plastic you see, if it is black and has a soft spot at the outward center of of the Hub, is probably the Bearing Buddy Bra. It is supposed to keep any extra grease that may have come out around your Bearing Buddy piston from being thrown all over your boat. You just grab it and give it a twist while pulling toward you and it should come off.
Here is a previous posting that might shed some light:
The first thing I would do is get down on the driveway and look at the inside of each of the trailer wheels to see if any grease is there. If so the inner grease seal has been blown out (probably by someone pumping too much grease into the Bearing Buddies) and the seal(s) need to be replaced.
If this is the case, I would remove the Bearing Buddy Bras & pull the Bearing Buddies & clean all of them out, pull the hubs off the axle, remove the bearings and the seals and clean out all the grease.
Inspect the spindles to make sure they are not damaged, looking for wear or dark spots or rings indicating burning or higher than normal temperatures.
Inspect the bearings for wear or burning.
After determining what parts you need, go to a reputable parts store and buy the parts (be sure to get Double Lipped inner seals) and at the same time ask for their recommendation for a good Lithium Based Wheel Bearing Grease.
Repack & install your bearings, install your grease seals, install your hubs back onto the axle, install your Bearing Buddies & pump grease into them j-u-s-t enough for the piston to begin to move toward you. Put on your Bearing Buddy Bras.
That should do it.
Good luck!
1perchjerker