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Have a 70#, 24V booster trolling motor mounted on transom. 70# 24 v remote control mounted on bow. Two batteries are in the stern and two are in the bow area. Everything is OK when I'm have someone in the back of the boat or I set back there and use the remote. What I would like to have is a cut off switch mounted in the bow. Would prefer the smallest and efficient switch possible. Trolling motors have cut off switches installed so looks like a small switch could be used. Need advice.
Are you saying you want a cutoff switch at the bow to control the TM on the stern?
Yes, just to cut stern off/on.Quote:
Originally Posted by IBNFSHN
How about a foot switch. Just like the old light switch in a car. Used one for years until I got my new MK auto pilot.
Chuck
That can be done one of 2 ways. You can either run a pair of #6 wires from the TM to a switch, rated at least 40 amp continuous, mounted up front. Or the way I would do it is mount a relay (rated for 40 amp continuous) back at the TM. Then you would only have to run a pair of 14 or 16 gauge wires to a small switch mounted up front. The hardest part will probably be running the wires but I don't know that for sure as I haven't seen your boat.
Exactly what type motor is on the stern? Model. Is it digital?
If it requires the battery to be switched on and off, the I would definitely use a relay (auto horn type relay). You don't wanna run that much cable to switch a lotta amps.
Lots of foot pedals use a micro switch. The size of these micro switches are deceiving. They can switch a lot of amps.
You can also get another remote and control the aft TM. ;)
If all the advice is confusing, just go to your local boat dealer. They have everything you need for such a deal. Actually I kinda like the idea. I might try to incorporate something like that on the pontoon rig to combat the wind swinging the rig around when at anchor. Hmmmmm.
aj
How about a Big Foot switch? I think you can eBay one or even seen em at Walmart. It can do momentary or continuous. THis would require running wires capable of supporting your full current draw though.
Might of known, I pulled the #6's I had in there outQuote:
Originally Posted by IBNFSHN
Think I will do it like you suggested Bill. Use a small relay switch like Cane Pole suggested. Will let you know how it goes.
Thanks guys.
IBNFSHN and Cane Pole have the right method. By all means run the smaller gauge wire to a relay. A solid state relay would really make the whole thing top shelf as they can withstand much higher duty cycles than electromechanicals.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doodlum