One that will bend and can be put back in shape. Good for pitching boat docks.
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One that will bend and can be put back in shape. Good for pitching boat docks.
I am in the process but don't have all the details worked out yet. These are TRUE LIGHT WIRE HOOKS that will bend. I will keep you posted on the progress.
ok thanks, have been looking for some, and cant find them anywere!Quote:
Originally Posted by GrouseFly
When you do GF let us know bud.Quote:
Originally Posted by GrouseFly
I really like Charlie Brewer's slider heads. You should be able to find something you like here:Quote:
Originally Posted by slab_slayer1
Charlie Brewer's Slider Company Inc. - 1-800-762-4701; 931-762-4700
We make a lot of heads but not one with "lite" hooks. Can you give more information to see if we can. For instance, style, size, hook size and color, etc.
Charlie
Pour your own and get those eagle Claw 575 light wire hooks here
Eagle Claw Jig Hooks
If you go to make your own check around for prices on jig hooks, you can save alot over the big box stores like Cabela's and Bass Pro
For light wire you could get aberdeen jig hooks and then bend them in and out to loosen the wire so they'd bend out when you snagged up. But really if you make your own you learn not to worry about it so much.
Fatman
Road Runner heads in 1/32 oz. have a hook that can be bent many time so you can get them back most of the time depending on the line size you use.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slab_slayer1
If you're going to be shooting or pitching or casting a jig into brushpiles or under/around docks (with or w/o brush under them) ... do yourself a favor and get Grousefly to send you a dozen of his Y guard weedless jigheads ;)
Whatever weight you normally use + whatever size hook + the Y guard = one fine jighead, that you'll catch many a fish on !!
I normally use 1/32 & 1/16oz jigheads with the Y guard ... #4 bronze or #2 gold hooks ... and add a solid body Crappie Pro tube or 1.5" Tiny Shad Panfish Assassin body. I've YET to set the hook on a fish, and not get the hook firmly planted into its jaw, because of the guard. Alot of people diss the weedless jigheads, saying that they miss/lose fish with them. I don't know what they're doing to cause it, or why they think it's the jigs fault .... but, I'm not having any problems of the sort. And I'm solidly sticking 1 to 2+lb fish, using 4lb Mr Crappie Super Hi-vis line and a 5ft UL rod :eek: (primary casting/dock shooting outfit).
And, yes .... even a weedless jighead can/will get hung, on occasion. BUT, if you've read my post on "Bowing to the jig" ... you'll learn how to avoid most of those hang-ups, before they occur ;)
And if you do alot of jig fishing around docks ... especially stationary docks (on posts) ... then please do read my article on "Vertical Casting". It will help you add a few more fish to the livewell !!
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better yet ... here's the "Bowing to the jig" post :
(copied from a previous reply)
Even weedless jigheads can/do get hung-up, occasionally. Here's a method I learned, that can keep you from hanging up and/or freeing your weedless jighead from a snag (before it hangs into it):
"One thing that I haven't mentioned lately, that goes along with casting over submerged wood, even with a weedless jighead, is what I call "taking a bow" to avoid getting hung on a branch. Even weedless jigheads can & will get hung, sometimes. This can be avoided, to an extent. When retrieving the jig, usually the line will swing back to you ... and you will notice it at the point where it enters the water (it will continue to get closer to you, as you reel in). When it stays in one spot, as you reel in, that indicates that the line is draped over something submerged in the path of your retrieve. As you continue to reel, eventually the jig will come in contact with that obstacle. As it does, and when the rod tip starts to bend down, a lot of people tend to try and "jerk" the jig over it. That works, sometimes, but quite often - they get hung. I try and avoid getting hung in the cover I'm fishing, so as not to have to break off - disturbing the cover, losing the bait, or alerting the fish to any unnatural conditions. I do this by "taking a bow" - with the rod tip.
In essence - I wait until the jig comes in contact, and the rod tip starts to bend ... then I drop the rod tip about 6" towards the jig, and in one fluid motion raise the rod tip up towards me about 12". This is not done fast, like a jerking motion ... but, more of a slow drop and lift motion. What this does (or seems to do) is allow the bait to fall away from the obstacle - then when you lift it back (twice as far as you let it fall away) the head of the jig "bumps" the obstacle, and "hops" up overtop of it. Well, most of the time, anyway. The reason I don't drop it down 6" and then lift it up more than 12" - is that I want the jig to clear the obstacle, but remain in the general area. I will work a tree top over, with this method, bumping and bowing and hopping the jig over multiple branches. Another reason I don't pull the jig back more than 12", or reel it back in (once I've cleared the branch) ... is because I've had numerous occasions where I've had a fish hit the jig, once it cleared the obstacle and started coming back towards me. In fact, it's happened often enough that I almost "expect" to get a hit, when "taking a bow" over a branch."
And here's my Vertical Casting Article :
Vertical Casting :
"That’s what I call it, anyway. Others may have another name, or many other names, or may just consider it a variation or part of “vertical jigging”. Decide for yourself.
What is “Vertical Casting” – simply put, it’s letting out line until the bait hits bottom or is obviously deeper than the Crappie are suspended … then slowly reeling the bait back up. You are, in essence, “casting” straight down (vertical) and reeling straight up. I don’t call it vertical “jigging”, because I don’t impart any extra movement to the bait. I don’t jerk, jiggle, shake, or cause any added movement to the bait as I reel it back up. In fact, I try and keep the rod & reel as still as possible.
How do you “Vertical Cast” – disengage your reel and allow the bait to drop straight down to the bottom, or deep enough that you are sure the bait has dropped below the depth of the fish. Engage the reel and very slowly start reeling back in. Hold the rod lightly in your hand (don’t grip it tight, as that will wear your hand and arm out, and it may effect your ability to detect a light strike). The rod should be in a comfortable position, in relation to your body, but your arm should not be resting on anything. The rod tip should be pointing straight out from you and the rod should be parallel to the water’s surface (what’s commonly known as the 9 o:clock position). A good, smooth winding reel is essential. Reeling “slowly” means taking 5-7 seconds to make one full turn of the reel handle. The bigger the reel (or reel spool) or the faster the reel’s line pickup speed – the slower you’ll need to turn the handle. You want the bait to take several seconds to rise a foot up thru the water column. This will give fish, in the most neutral of moods, a chance to ease over and sample your offering.
Where do you “Vertical Cast” – anywhere … but, especially in places or under circumstances where normal, horizontal casting isn’t possible, or when fish are deeper than you can reach them with your normal casting (distance) methods. Some situations that I use a “vertical cast” are: blown down trees with branches that are too numerous or thick to get a bait far enough down in them (with normal casting methods)… deep brush piles … submerged standing trees with multiple branches …bridge/boat dock pylons … when there are overhead or overhanging obstacles that won’t allow me to make a cast or accurate presentation … and when it’s too windy to get a light bait on light line to sink deep enough to get to the fish. I also use it on cover that I’ve already cast to, to probe deeper into the cover, from the vantage point of directly overhead.
What “bait” do you “Vertical Cast” – normally I use jigs … tube jigs, grub/jighead, hair/feather jigs, and even jig/minnow. Most of the time I use a weedless jighead, but I do, on occasion, use a non-weedless one. The size of the jighead, or actually the weight, ranges from 1/64oz to 3/16oz - but, you can use heavier or lighter ones – depending on how receptive the fish are to them. Most of the time I’m using a 1/16oz … and since I’m using a free spooling “spinning” reel and light line – and I’m “casting” straight down – it seems to be an all around good weight/size. The “plastics” I put on my jigheads are from 1 inch long to 2.5 inches long … generally approximating the smaller sized baitfish of the lake.
What is happening during “Vertical Casting”, that causes a Crappie to bite? It is my belief that the fish see the bait as a forage fish or aquatic creature, rising slowly towards the surface. Possibly they see it as an injured baitfish, or just one that is feeding on the plankton or algae, and not paying attention to any predator threat. It’s one of the reasons I don’t impart any extra action to the bait. If you’ve noticed minnows around cover, they aren’t usually zigging and zagging … but, seem to just be slowly meandering among the branches and minding their own business. Crappie are not “dash and slash” feeders. They are, for the most part, “ambush” feeders that slip up from behind and under their prey … slowly, so as not to alarm the prey, but deliberately in a “stalking” manner. The slowly rising bait gives them ample opportunity to realize that this “meal” is an “easy target”, and they won’t have to expend much energy to capture it. And don’t worry about coils in the line, causing the bait to come to the surface in a circling motion. That’s not necessarily a bad thing – minnows seldom rise to the surface like a floating stick. They do tend to “circle” around and around and back and forth as they feed and or come up shallower.
How will you know when a Crappie has taken the bait? A hit, or strike, on a rising jig can come in many forms. You may get a yank, a “tic” (very light tap or yank), a feeling of mushy “weight” (like dragging up a leaf or chunk of moss), a sideways movement in the line, or your line may suddenly go slack (and you know the bait isn’t on the bottom). Any of these, and any other movement of the line or rod tip that you don’t cause to happen – could be a “hit”, and you should set the hook with a lifting of the arm and an upward snapping of the wrist. Holding the rod/reel lightly in your hand will telegraph even the lightest “bump”, so watch the line in conjunction with feeling with the rod, and you’ll soon figure out the difference between bumping a branch and getting a bite.
I didn’t “invent” this method, and take no credit for doing so. I just use it, with good results, and just gave it a “name” to distinguish it from like methods and variations of established methods – you call it what you like, but give it a try. I hope you have as much success with it as I do."
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... luck2ya ... cp :cool: