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Anybody use Sally Hansen , Tough as Nails , to seal guide wraps .
I’m in the process of trying to turn a 2wt fiberglass flyrod into an ultralight spinning rod and will be replacing the two lower guides with spinning guides , along with the reelseat and handle of course.
I don’t have a way to turn the blank and apply epoxy and thought a few coats of SH might work .
Going for a budget build .
Guess I’ll be the Guinea pig in this one .
I put the two stripper guides on my conversion this evening and coated the wrapped with Sally Hansen Tough as Nails .
In thirty minutes I’ll add a second coat . Maybe even a third .
We’ll see how it goes .
We the exception of almost running my wife and I out of the house from the smell from the epoxy I used to glue the handle and grip on .
That was yesterday and I can smell the epoxy. And I put the rod outdoors last night to air some .
My next project will have to be glued up in the garage on a warm day .
If everything cures tonight, I hope to take the rod out for a test run tomorrow.
BTW ; I googled and some folks have used the Sally Hansen for rod wraps , not the best thing to use from what I read , but some said it was holding up after a couple years use .
It’ll be easy to touch up .
Very interesting! It might be a crazy idea but UV cure resin would be worth a try too. Thread finish is the only thing I’ve ever used, but like you said, it requires a rotation device.
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I put three coats on the threads and they look ok for a budget build .Quote:
Originally Posted by dannypeoples
I’d built a couple short flyrods a few years ago and used marine spar varnish on the thread wraps .
The Sally Hansen looks as good as the spar varnish .
Pulled a muscle in the neck and shoulder, the other day , helping a guy load my ten foot Jon boat into the back of his truck when I sold it to him , and hadn’t been able to try out the conversion except for a few cast in the driveway.
Glad the boat is gone . I’ve gotten too old to manhandle boats .
I had used clear fingernail polish and sewing thread many years ago. It cracked. I eneded up redoing it with flexcoat
As we get older, we have to be more careful on what we throwing around for sure. Hope you heal up pretty quickly. Sounds interesting on the S.H. As for the U.V Resin, providing you had the curing U.V. light, you could apply it in lite coats and rotate it by hand to level it up. Then as your rotating it, apply the light for about a minute to set it so it didn't run any more. Apply next coat and repeat, for as many coats as you feel you need. then set in sunlight till completely cured.
I used to use Sally Hanses hard as nails to coat the wraps on striped bass bucktails. From my experience it does crack after a while. But should be enough to get out on the water to try the rod.
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Learned a hard lesson this morning.
I was in the process of removing the lower guides on another flyrod I plan too convert and only had one more guide to go . A small single foot guide.
I was using the knife scrapping method and thought maybe a little heat would soften the epoxy .
Bad idea . It also soften the blank and it broke at that spot with just a small amount of pressure.
It wasn’t one of my favorite colors , but hurt a little to lose it .
Lesson learned.
Sorry to hear of your misadventure. I have also set one of my JDM blanks on fire. Luckily it was the tip so I cut it off after it broke. Pains other ways.Quote:
Originally Posted by gillchaser999
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I’m considering repairing the rod section . It’s in the top half of the middle section of a three piece. I was planning on putting a spinning back in that spot anyways.Quote:
Originally Posted by dannypeoples
Just a little worried about having a flat spot in the bend .
Think I’ll make the repair and check the bend before finishing the rod .
Hate to just toss it out.