On the final leg of the cleanup...
https://youtu.be/1_2VuKxwvZA
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On the final leg of the cleanup...
https://youtu.be/1_2VuKxwvZA
Bud you have enough of the stringer exposed in the front. Mix some straight "Slow" epoxy and wet the area with the thin stuff going forward before bedding your new stringer section into the hull. Remember you do not have to use one piece stringers especially if using Coosa Bluewater 26. You do have to continue your work while the epoxy is at least tacky so you achieve a chemical bond between sections. I use a epoxy "Butter" between sections of stringer and usually work one stringer section at a time till I get to the bilge. Remember no hard lines, the stringer needs to float above the hull skin a little so the skin can flex it your on a stump or stob.
Rojo, how about coosa 20 instead of the 26? I figure on getting a 4x8 sheet, and the 20 is about a $100 less money. They are both "waterproof", just that the 26 is more dense. And since the fiberglass is supposed to provide the strength, maybe the coosa 20 would be good'er nuf, dono?
And thank you for all your help.
Respectfully speaking in a core laminate the integrity of the laminate is directly related to the integrity of it's core material. Divinity Cell is one type of core you see in decks, floors, consoles, cabins, etc where compression is not a big factor. Glass Reinforced Plastic, GRP, or fiberglass is a flexible composite regardless of how it is molded. Add a core between the laminate or a substrate to use a different name, the integrity of that substrate or core directly effects the spine or stiffness of the finished laminate. Coosa Bluewater 20 is a lighter material per cubic foot but also compresses easier, fractures easier, and is used mainly for flooring like Divinity Cell. Coosa Bluewater 26 on the other hand is a much tougher core composite, much harder to crush, crack, compress, etc so when you bed a Coosa 26 core in it is usually in a transom or in a much larger boat 40ft+ you may find it as the core in a Cleat base, davit base, in a deck where the Tuna Tower is intended to be bolted, etc. In my Blazer build, when I'm laminating the new deck to epoxy to the stringers that is a 1/2 Coosa Bluewater 20 core. We are walking on it not bolting a engine to it. The cost difference between Coosa Bluewater 20 & 26 is there for a reason, it is two Different Materials to be used in different applications. I hope this explanation of the differences in application is helpful. You could have left the rotten wood in the stringer (almost) if using Coosa 20. Now that being said 4 layers of 1708 would certainly make up the difference but at a much higher laminating cost.
P.S. be sure you stringer was 1/2 in and not 5/8in. I have never removed 1/2 plywood in a stringer system. Coosa 26 is available in 4x8 sheets 5/8in thick. That was my number one go to on a multilaminate transom. Multilaminate transoms are much stronger, I did those on Offshore Center Consoles.
Thanks John, coosa bluewater 26 it is then. Sounds like a plan. The stuff ain’t sold just everywhere. But I found a place on the way to the keys and will pick some up next time we go to save on shipping.
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My supplier also sells resin for cultured marble and their biggest customer is less than 5 miles from my shop. Maybe that is why my delivery charges was so low.
Yeppers, you are correct. I double checked, it's 5/8 inch thick. I had 1/2 inch on the brain because the decking was 1/2.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rojo