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If a mold is designed to have a wire keeper can you pour the head without the wire keeper. Or does it leave a lot of lead where the wire keeper would be.
I'm looking at the do it round head with wire keeper in 1/32 & 1/24.
Not all that interested in the wire keeper would like a ball head that's weight falls between what the no collar 1/32 & the no collar 1/16 weighs.
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I have a few molds designed for wire keepers and pour heads without the keeper all the time. They leave just a small bump at the bottom of the head which I file down. These molds get double duty because I do pour some with the wire keeper for when I use plastic tubes or grubs as well as my hand ties.
Thanks,
I decided to hold off on getting the mold for now. I modified 2 of the 7 spots on my 1/32 mold so they are close to 1/24. Poured 100 of them last night, need to get them painted and fish them some to see how I like them before I can decide if I want to make more or not.
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Ended up ordering the 1/32 & 1/24 mold along with the 1/16/3/32 mold. Received them last week. Molds are stenciled to use #4 and #6 hooks. I want to make some 1/32 heads with a #8 victory sickle hook. It didn't take very much to modify the mold to use the #8 sickle, as it turned out a #10 mustad regular bend hook will also now fit.
The actual weight difference between the 1/24 (1g) and the 1/16 (1.3g) size wasn't enough to my liking so I used a 1/4 router bit to increase the weight of the 1/16 holes to 1.5g.
Overall I like these molds with a little modifying I can use hooks from #10 to #2, I've mostly made jig heads without the keeper, but did make up about 50 #4 and #2's with the keeper to try it out.