For trolling motor, 36V
I’m looking at these, but wondering about other options. Are there switches that would be suitable for this?Attachment 470036
Sent from my iPhone using Crappie.com
Printable View
For trolling motor, 36V
I’m looking at these, but wondering about other options. Are there switches that would be suitable for this?Attachment 470036
Sent from my iPhone using Crappie.com
They make 2 bank battery switches. They will only switch the positive leads. Some more information on what you have in mind would help narrow it down on what would work for you
IMO the SB175 is way overkill the 175 denotes it I good for 175 amps energized. The SB 50 is good for 50 amps energized. If you are switching banks manually the trolling motor is going to be off apx zero amps. I have alot of the SB50 connections on my boat. I will look later but I think the largest pin for them is 6awg. I will also look at the switch I have for the electronic battery to see what amps is is rated for.
Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
:popcorn:popcorn
Amazon.com
Sent from my SM-G892A using Crappie.com mobile app
Perko battery switch works perfectly for switching, and/or disconnecting batteries
Sent from my SM-G892A using Crappie.com mobile app
This is the switch I have for switching my 12V electronics batteries. It's rated for 300amps which is overkill but it's what I have.Blue Sea Systems 6007 m-Series Battery Switch Selector 4 Position, Red
Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 6006 m-Series Battery Switch ON/OFF with Knob, Red : Boating Battery Switches : Sports & Outdoors
For strait switching I would use a switch. This one and the one suggested above both say 32V, I would have no reservations about using it for a 36v trolling motor.
I use the Anderson SB50 style connectors for reliable plugs, have it for connecting my trolling motor to the boat wiring and to connect the electronics battery to the boat wiring as well as other places.
The SB175 connectors are a good bit bigger than the SB50 here are the data sheets on them.
ds-sb175.pdf (azureedge.net)
Anderson SB 50A Multipole, Anderson Power Products (azureedge.net)
The largest pin for the SB50 is 6awg so if you want 4 awg you would need the SB175. When I ran 4ga for my force 36V I trimmed the wire down to fit in the 6awg pin.
If you plan on making your own cables you are going to need heavy duty crimpers. The last connectors I installed I put the head of the crimping pliers in a bench vice to squeeze them, not totally necessary but it sure was easier on my hands.
:hesaid
Thanks for all the replies guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by DockShootinJack
What I’m doing may not make sense.
But I’m dealing with what I have, what I’ve been gifted, what’s going to probably have to replaced next year - making the best and most economical use of it.
Right now I have 3 12v group 31 in series, AND a 40 ah 36v lithium all in the boat.
I want to switch back and forth easily between them. The 3 lead acids probably have at least one more good season on them, too good to waste.
That is phase 1, as it is now.
When they crap out, plan is to replace them with lithium, either 2 40 ah in parallel, or maybe one 60. Keeping the 40 I have now. Plan is to use and charge them separately. Some of you may think thats overkill, but I have demonstrated I can burn through 75-90 ah in a day. Heavy boat, diehard crankbait troller.
And I want a comfortable reserve so I don’t get stuck with an Ulterra that won’t stow. Plus I just like overkill.
That’s phase 2.
I looked at Perko switches. I have one already on my starting battery, just an off/on. As you stated, it will only switch positive. Is there any repercussion to having all the negatives connected full time? This is where my lack of electrical knowledge shows.
Sent from my iPhone using Crappie.com
A switch is defiantly the easiest way to do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by J White
I don't claim to be an electrical engineer or anything. I have worked on aircraft electrical and avionics systems for the last 30 years. Every system on aircraft have a common negative (ground) which is the aircraft itself. All the circuits in your house get connected to a common ground also.
I don't see a problem with connecting the final negative terminal of the 3 in series with the negative of the Lithium.
I fish a lot of electric only, I don't want to run out of juice either. I'm running 3 50a lithium in series for a force, have a 125a lithium for electronics and a group 27 as a back up to that. Had to use a paddle one time 15 years ago to get back to the dock, it ain't happening again.