Boat control

Explain to me the meaning of boat control, when it comes to livescope.

For me, having my LS transducer on my TM shaft, "boat control" is 90% of the equation. My boat drifts easily, in almost no wind, so I try and approach an area from downwind as often as possible. Scanning out to 40-60ft I look to find cover, structure, baitfish schools, and schools of fish. Any "new" cover found is punched in on my Hook 7, which is set on map of the lake. As my target gets within range (40ft out) I'll take my foot off the TM and slow my approach ... flipping my jigs to the target area once it is in the 20-25ft range. I'll bump the TM only if needed to stay at that distance, otherwise turning the TM (as needed) to keep the target in the middle of the LS ping while NOT stepping on the "go" button, unless needed to correct my position or distance.
(I have a 5spd 12v 43# thrust MotorGuide)

Which reminds me ... I need to tighten the adjustment screw on my foot pedal, as it swings too easily to one side. :check

All in all, "boat control" is simply getting & keeping the boat in a position that's within casting range of your target.

I use a separate pole for my unit. I set it to scan 50ft and start pitching jigs once I within 25ft of fish or cover. I always approach upwind because it gives me the most boat control.

Separate pole for live sonar (Active Target) with a spot lock TM.

Separate pole here. I scan at 60 feet & go down in distance as i get closer & usually fish from 30 to 15 feet if the fish are not to spooky.

Separate pole here. I scan at 60 feet & go down in distance as i get closer & usually fish down wind most times from 30 to 15 feet if the fish are not to spooky. I may have to bump it over sometimes but i try hard to stay off of them without causing a bunch of commotion or disturbance from the trolling motor. If spotlocking don't bother the fish that's what i do.

Have not tried a separate pole yet. Would like to see a Livescanner in action some day. I guess if I had to say the most important aspect of boat control when Livescoping would be being able to move fast and stop on a dime. That's why my son and I both use tandem trolling motors mounted on the back of our boats. The props are turned so the trolling motors are pointed out the back of the boat. they are controlled with a Bigfoot button up front to activate them. With this set up, we can search for fish with our Ultrex's on 7 to 10 speed at over 2 MPH! when we see big crappie we can touch the button for the back up motors and stop almost on a dime.

I use the Rite Hite Turret but before that a PoDunk that is a separate pole.
Never had on trolling motor shaft.
Regardless you need to be in position before you pitch or drop on a fish.
I run screen on 20 to 30 feet depending on wind an how the fish are reacting that day. Some days they are more spooky than other days. I hardly ever drop straight down on them unless I am fishing deep. Let target get in the 12 to 15 range and pitch about 25 ft beyond them. Leave bail open and let jig fall to depth just above target fish then begin a slow retrieval just above target. When dropping straight on them stop about 3 foot above the fish and watch for a reaction and then finesse the jig on down slowly to target fish.
Fishing roaming fish is a whole different story.
My 2cents.


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I use a separate pole for ML and Terrova with I-Pilot Link and spot lock.
Boat control- It's easier to work into the wind. Although I prefer to work downstream, down current. Fish face into the current to watch for food. Best if the current is running opposite the wind. But that isn't always the case.
If your out of the current, run into the wind.
Although, you could cast over the fish and pull the bait back towards you, and in there face.

I tried the extra pole thing an hated it. I know people that love them but I've never seen a crappie guide or bass professional that use the extra pole, all have the transducer on the shaft of their trolling motor. A lot of bass pros use Active Target now also.

To Me - Boat control is being able the keep the boat positioned as you wish while being able to control the trolling motor and keep the transducer on the target. When you do need to change position/direction of the trolling motor, to have the skill to get the transducer pointed back at the target quickly, My $.02. :twocents

All that being said it's rare to see a crappie guide or bass pro use spot-lock to actually fish. They use it when they catch one, re-tie and other things so they don't drift off the spot/area.