Made an oops!

Meant to post this here but it ended uo on my catfish forum! Darn computer! Try pasting it here.

I've read where a number of guy's use a split shot to stop the bobber from going to the jig. maybe it's just to add weight to cast? Don't really know. Then I've been reading where a guy is having trouble with the jig tangling with the bobber somehow, he uses a split shot. Couple things I'm thinking is #1 there's an added weight between the bobber and the jig, could that be the problem? I use a small swivel between the bobber and jig about 12" above the jig and never have the problem. When I first got going I'd simply let the bobber fall to the eyelet on the jig and no problem with that either. #2 Then too, using a slip bobber, I never set myself up to need long cast's so rather than using some force to cast I simply toss the bobber rig gently to where I hope it will go! it would seem to me that casting harder is going to cause some kind of problem between the jug and bobber especially if there's an added split shot in there. Remove the split shot and let the bobber fall to the eyelet on the jig and I'd think the problem would also go away as the bobber is heavier than the jig and pulls the jig behind it. probably with light line on a spinning rod the bobber might actually pull away from the jig some. Thing that brought this up is a guy having trouble with his jig tangling with the line at the bobber. he uses a split shot between the jig and the bobber and I'm thinking that may well be the problem. Or, couple other things, to heavy line and/or trying to cast to far. Force a longer cast with the jig hanging below the bobber and I can see problem's coming. My bobber's are light but heavier than my jigs! Got some new one's this year like I see guy's on here using and they are pretty light. Don't know how they will work yet but betting I can't force longer cast's with them without problems of some kind. What do you guy's think.

Wait a minute. What the heck am I asking catfish guy's about crappie rigs for? Oh well put it on the wrong forums!

I would think most problems occur on the back cast or the cast. Everyone see these bass guys on tv whip a back cast and change directions, load the rod and whip it forwards. That is all great a weight ( the lure) attached at the end of the line. With a slip float and a jig being two weights attached at different points on the line. In the second scenario the if the same cast style is used the two weights pass each other when the cast transitions from backcast to forward cast. As this change of direction occurs the line whips around in a loop. A miniature version of a fly cast. Unless the float and the jig are grouped together ,then that close by pass allows the jig and float a chance to hit and tangle. The second chance is when the jig snaps to the end of it's line, and is slingshotted by the float. Moving the rod back allowing the jig and float to hang down, then smoothly accelerate the cast. Things go a lot smoother.
Play around with some cast when you have a minnow, splitshot and a float. Three points to effct each other in the cast. A slow deliberate back cast, stop and allow everything to hang down, then a smooth cast everything lands nicely. Get wild with it and the minnow can be tangled above the float.

it works well to have the weight out in front and not following , no matter if its fixed or slipping . extra or additional weight in the middle might not be the best idea either .

I slip bobber all the time. I always use split shot about 18" above my hook. I always use a bare hook and minnow. IF I use a weighted hook, no split shot.

The reason for the split shot? It gives the minnow freedom to roam.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hanr3

I slip bobber all the time. I always use split shot about 18" above my hook. I always use a bare hook and minnow. IF I use a weighted hook, no split shot.

The reason for the split shot? It gives the minnow freedom to roam.

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Also, if you’re fishing moving water with a light wet fly or bait shotting the line 8-10 inches above can get the bait moving naturally and vertically in the current for a more realistic presentation. I particularly use it in my creek with wet flies. You can experiment with shot to get the drift just right. If on familiar water the process is pretty quick.
Bob

I like a tied bobber stop (dental floss or PowerPro) above and below the bobber ...for 3 reasons ...

1. This keeps the bobber from touching the hook or jig eye when casting ...

2. If the hook or jig breaks off - the lower bobber stop keeps the bobber on the line for retrieval ...

3. If pushing bobber rigs - I can adjust the lower bobber stop up to the bobber so that the bobber doesn’t slide down to the bait from friction pushing thru the water ...

Rickie

About 12" above the jig I have a small swivel. Then a glass bead then bobber and then bobber stop. In the beginning I didn't use the swivel and just let the bobber fall on the jig. Don't know why I changed, Probably just gave me an Excuse to buy swivels!