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I have an issue wit the way somebody wired in my bilge pump,,,it s a 3 wire bilge pump with the built in float so supposively all you need is 2;wires to run it automatically or 3 if your running a switch,,,..mine has 2 wires running to it but also Has the old floats installed Still in bottom of well and wired it somehow to make it all work using the stock switch on my Ranger boat dash,,,,anyone run into this issue before?
Sounds like they either bypassed the float switch, or for some reason hooked switched power to the float, which makes no sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by Takeum
The pump should have constant fused power to the float switch, and then an additional power wire that comes from the switch for manual override.
More like the old floatswitch was added and the ne bilge was included into itQuote:
Originally Posted by Atimm693
Fixed,,only used 2 wires and kept the old floats tied into it so to use the manual switch on dash still when needed,,the new bilge already has a float in it so it turns on as well,,,seems like overkill, but it works...
Some bilge pumps ( round ones) that have 3 wires are automatic pumps. Brown wire to ignition on hot wire. Brown/white to dash switch. With ignition on pump cycles on every 4-5 mins. That's why brown wires to ignition on. If hooked straight to batt. pump will continue cycling and drain batt. setting in yard. And it does have some kind of switch or small itty-bitty float so if it's submerged it come on.