Hey Guys ...... If I might interject ..
I haven't fished boo condo's, but I don't think they could be any more snaggy than a pine or cedar tree that hasn't been submerged for very long. I fish wood cover about 95% of the time, which is why I use weedless jigheads 95% of the time ;)
But, in reference to the deep boo condo, that you're looking for methods & presentations, Bama647 .... you might want to try this : http://www.crappie.com/articles/crappiepappy.htm
And, you might want to read this, too. This is my method for bumping a jig over a branch, when there's a chance that it may become hung up, if I keep reeling. You will also see where "3's" and I have similar results, when freeing the jig from potentially snagging up on a branch :p
It's what I call "Taking a bow" --
"Even weedless jigheads can/do get hung-up, occasionally. Here's a method I learned, that can keep you from hanging up and/or freeing your weedless jighead from a snag (before it hangs into it):
One thing that I haven't mentioned lately, that goes along with casting over submerged wood, even with a weedless jighead, is what I call "taking a bow" to avoid getting hung on a branch. Even weedless jigheads can & will get hung, sometimes. This can be avoided, to an extent. When retrieving the jig, usually the line will swing back to you ... and you will notice it at the point where it enters the water (it will continue to get closer to you, as you reel in). When it stays in one spot, as you reel in, that indicates that the line is draped over something submerged in the path of your retrieve. As you continue to reel, eventually the jig will come in contact with that obstacle. As it does, and when the rod tip starts to bend down, a lot of people tend to try and "jerk" the jig over it. That works, sometimes, but quite often - they get hung. I try and avoid getting hung in the cover I'm fishing, so as not to have to break off - disturbing the cover, losing the bait, or alerting the fish to any unnatural conditions. I do this by "taking a bow" - with the rod tip.
In essence - I wait until the jig comes in contact, and the rod tip starts to bend ... then I drop the rod tip about 6" towards the jig, and in one fluid motion raise the rod tip up towards me about 12". This is not done fast, like a jerking motion ... but, more of a slow drop and lift motion. What this does (or seems to do) is allow the bait to fall away from the obstacle - then when you lift it back (twice as far as you let it fall away) the head of the jig "bumps" the obstacle, and "hops" up overtop of it. Well, most of the time, anyway. The reason I don't drop it down 6" and then lift it up more than 12" - is that I want the jig to clear the obstacle, but remain in the general area. I will work a tree top over, with this method, bumping and bowing and hopping the jig over multiple branches. Another reason I don't pull the jig back more than 12", or reel it back in (once I've cleared the branch) ... is because I've had numerous occasions where I've had a fish hit the jig, once it cleared the obstacle and started coming back towards me. In fact, it's happened often enough that I almost "expect" to get a hit, when "taking a bow" over a branch."
Now, this is, of course, in reference to "casting/retrieving" a single jig ... which is what I do, most often. Both methods are probably just as reliable on a boo condo, as they are on a downed tree or brush pile. They, along with the other methods mentioned, will give you a fair range of choices of presentations.
..... luck2ya ... cp :cool: