Cabling Helix 10 G2N & Helix 10 Mega SI G2N

Hello all. I have recently bought 2 new units. Helix 10 G2N and Helix 10 Mega SI G2N. I have seen a lot of mixed reviews on what type of cabling to use for power. I am just looking for recommendation as to what gauge and type to use for the power cables and have a couple general questions:

- What type of power cable to use (10G, 12G, etc) Shielded Neccessary?
- Can the bow power cable tap into the console power cable for should I run two seperate power cables that lead to the battery?

Any other info you could share would be greatly appreciated. I am in general good with electronics but am kind of lost when it comes to boat electronics and the proper way to wire everything.

You will get a LOT of varying opinions on what type of wire to use.

I used this stuff from my cranking battery to a dedicated fuse block at the console. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used the 12 gauge version of the same wire from the fuse block to the bow unit.

The reason I used this wire was because it has a VERY tough sheath, it is tinned stranded and twisted wire. The twisting in the wire helps make the wire less susceptible to interference. I have virtually no interference with my current setup which includes a 24V Terrova trolling motor and have not had to add any chokes to the wiring. I also used a hydraulic crimper with marine grade terminal hardware.

The only drawback I have found with this wire is that stripping it is a little difficult.

Thanks for the reply Bob. So 10G to a fuse block at the console. From the fuse block did you just run the factory power cable wire to the console unit?

HB recommends 14guage ... 12 is better ...

I use 6gauge to the Blue Sea fuse panel - then 10gauge to each unit ...

https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...locks/ST_Blade

Is 10gauge overkill ...??

14gauge = 0.52ft vs 10gauge = 1.02ft ... That's 0.50ft difference times a 20ft run (to the bow) for a measly $10 extra for peace of mind ...

Marine Grade Wire Duplex DC, Tinned Copper USA Made Boat Wiring

This wire is not twisted like Bob's link ... but it is multistrand (individual strand tinned) marine grade ...and very pliable to work with ...

Rickie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wilk816

Thanks for the reply Bob. So 10G to a fuse block at the console. From the fuse block did you just run the factory power cable wire to the console unit?

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Yes

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rnvinc

I use 6gauge to the Blue Sea fuse panel - then 10gauge to each unit ...
Rickie

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Can I ask you what connection you use to tie the 10ga to the stock power wire ~16-18ga of the units.
Step down butt splices? Burndy type crimps?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rangertee

Can I ask you what connection you use to tie the 10ga to the stock power wire ~16-18ga of the units.
Step down butt splices? Burndy type crimps?

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I solder bare wire to bare wire and heat shrink ... but many use crimp style connections ...

Rickie

Thanks, I have a lot more long term confidence in my crimping than my soldering abilities.

Here is something i wrote up the other day for someone on facebook. This is just the way i did it and it has worked great. I take no responsibility if it doesn't work for you or messes anything up.

If anyone is doing this from scratch.. .. look into a blue seas fuse block. They come in different sizes depending on how much you may be hooking up. Mount the fuse block in a easy to get to central location. I put mine in a rod locker. Put a master cut off switch in your battery compartment. Get you some red and black 10g wire (minimum). Run the red wire from the battery to the correct side (power in) of cutoff switch. Attach a short piece of red wire to other side (out) of cutoff switch. Install an inline, manual resetable breaker (15-20 amp is usually good). Then continue running red wire from other side of breaker to fuse block and connect to the positive end of fuse block. Now run black wire from negative post of battery all the way to the negative side of fuse block. You now have a dedicated fuse block just for your electronics. The "inline fuses" you normally splice in, now just go in the fuse block. Run positive and negative wires from fuse block to units or accessories as needed or added. Super easy, clean install, properly protected, easy trouble shooting, and much better/consistent voltage that avoids the original boat wiring. The cut off switch provides you a way to kill all power to your electronics (be sure to properly power the units down first) when you get finished. This can keep something from accidently draining your battery. Also great to keep a surge from getting to your electronics while charging battery.