Seat posts questions

I'm in the process of updating the Starcraft boat I purchased in late fall.
one smaller item on my list is the seat postsThere are (3) different brackets mounted in the floor, each has a 2-1/4" diameter hole. I have (3) seat posts, each about 14" long. Each seat has a bracket, also with a 2-1/4" diameter hole. The brackets are cast aluminum, the posts are aluminum.

My problem is this, the post stick in the floor brackets, takes a pipe wrench and hammer sometimes to remove. Similar problem with seats, the bracket on bottom of seat and post become stuck together.

Questions:
Should I replace brackets and posts with 3/4" posts and brackets?

Should I clean / resize posts and brackets (posts smaller diameter, enlarge diameter of brackets)?

Is there another solution?

I don't mind some effort in cleaning / resizing, if it solves the problem plus it saves me the expense of new 3/4" posts and brackets.

My boat is currently upside down, while I paint the bottom, so no pictures, but I think everyone understands, and more than one must have dealt with stuck seat posts!

I need help, winter will end soon, then it will be crappie time!

They're supposed to be near the same dimensions so that there's no "wobble" factor ... but, gunk can build up on both sections and cause them to become "stuck", so if a good cleaning isn't sufficient, then a little sanding down may be in order (along with a fresh application of grease). That application of a light grease to the posts would keep them from "screeching" when swiveled, plus allow for easier extraction.

That would be my first inclination, before considering changing out the entire post/bracket system.

I had a 05 Lund that the seat posts were always stuck (Springfield taper fit bases) the only thing I found that worked was a thin washer dropped in the base hole that would hold the post up a few thousands of a inch so the taper wouldn't fully wedge.
The Lund I have now has Attwood seat bases and they never stick you can lift them out with two fingers.

Sand and polish post and brackets until they fit fairly loose where you can put them together and take apart without a lot of effort. One thing I have found is the aluminum post has a tendency to distort with the pressure placed on them. Wall thickness is to thin. Once you get them good and clean look for a product called Slip Plate. It's a spray graphite based lubricant that will dry. I have seen it in auto zone. We used it on the slides on car carrier trailers that when loaded tend to bind and grab. Worked wonders on them.

Anti-seizing compound would work good also.......get it at any auto parts store.....walmart has it too

Cleaning, sanding, then anti-seize spray sounds like the plan. I turned the boat back over this afternoon, will start putting it all back together tomorrow.
Thanks to all for starting me in right direction.

i didn't consider the aluminum expanding / distorting due to the 240 pound load placed on the very thin wall tubing.
In the future, I'll look for the 3/4" steel pins, I don't see them binding or seizing.

Do they look like these?

9″ Round Bases

If they do remove the base and take the key where the screws go in and cut it in half to the same diameter as the main hole and lube with silicone spray.

You already turned the boat over ---- while it was upside down You could have ran a Brake cylinder hone with a drill and cleaned out the Corrosion then flushed with W-D 40 ... then the holes would have nothing that would bind the Pedestal Rods

Are your bases and pedestals mixed brands? Springfield Marine and SwivelEze. They look similar, measure close to the same size, but are not compatible. No amount of elbow grease will fix the problem.