Chartreuse curing problem. Help?

I only have this problem with the Green Chartreuse ProTec paint, and It does not happen all the time.
Does anyone know why this happens. I'm curing for the the directed period of time and temp.
:dono
Attachment 279159

Thanks

That is what we affectionately call the runny nose. I had the same problem with that particular color when I started. You are likely getting the jig too hot or dipping it too long and getting too much paint on it.

Yep too much paint. LOL I call it cone head. To stop this you must control the heat and the paint. Now people have their own way of doing this. I use a heat gun on high, I hold the jig by the hook just above the gun and I roll it side to side, two times. The smaller jig I do faster and bigger jig slower. I heat the jig to the point that when I put in the the paint it will cover the whole jighead without glossing over. Keep your paint stirred so it's light and fluffy. If you going to do a lot of jigs, pay or make a fluid bed. Makes a world difference. Good luck!

Check your actual oven temp. They are off by 50 degrees sometimes, especially toaster ovens. Just turn it down or decrease the time. I use up to 7 kinds of blends and I turn mine down and go a little longer.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ifish

Check your actual oven temp. They are off by 50 degrees sometimes, especially toaster ovens. Just turn it down or decrease the time. I use up to 7 kinds of blends and I turn mine down and go a little longer.

---

Yep mine is off by 30 plus degrees.

I have had trouble with chartreuse lately. Have changed cure temp and heating method. Just need to get them dialed in again. Thick paint... I use a digital thermometer and measure temp at the level of head. Also elevate toaster oven with bricks. Dial setting is a little closer to actual since doing that. (If you take toaster apart, you will understand why that helps.)

I cut all my paint with gloss. I use a 50/50 ratio of whatever color and gloss. I heat all my heads, with the exception of my fiberguards heads, to where when I dip the head and tap the excess paint off it is glossy. I then dip the head immediately in water to cool. I bake all my heads at 220 degrees for 20 minutes. This includes my heads with 3D eyes and fiberguards heads. Once cool I then slap a coat of UV seal coat. No problems with drippy paint and my heads come on pretty swank. I also use a fluid bed and heat gun.

Attachment 279411
Attachment 279412

I made tens of thousands of jigs per year. All of my ovens were calibrated with the same tempuratures. There are certain powder paints that have a lower heat point then others.

Common issues are two fold:
1.) Jig is being dipped in to non fluid power
Remedy (use a fluid bed)
2.) (most common issue) Curing tempurature is TOO high!

Powdery paints (that look like powdered sugar) are more prone to cone heading than others. Black, chartrues, bright breen, white, green chartreuse (to name a few). You are less likely to have these issues when utilizing more granular paints such as orange or pink (to name a few).

Contrary to popular belief, not every color should be cured at the same tempurature. Although the jar tells you to cure at 350 degrees (and you calibrate your oven by using a thermometer) some paints DO NOT cure correctly at those tempuratures.

I'll see if I can find the color/tempurature chart that one of the companies put out but, it is interesting to note that most of them are no where close to 350 degrees.

When I was running tests, I found the best tempurature that would cure all different colors as I might not be running a cure on one color. As a good rule of thumb, drop your tempurature for curing and add time.
I went to 20 minutes and a tempurature of 315 degrees and this worked for about 95% of the colors.

I'll see if I can dig up the chart for you but this is the issue! I had the identical issue with green chartrues (the color in your photo) and that is what specifically got me on to testing color cycles and ulimately finding the tempurature guide put out for curing temps and times.

Thank y'all. I did a batch to replace the messed up ones, and they came out great. I reduced the time I heated the head before dipping and all is good. Jig on.

Cure time and Temp for Powder Paint
Recommended Cure Times and Temps From CSI (Component Systems Inc.)
White*- 25 mins. @ 356F
Yellow Chartreuse* - 25 mins @ 356F
Green Chartreuse* -25 mins @ 356F
Blaze Orange* -25 mins @ 356F
Black*- 25 mins @ 356F
Hot Pink*- 25 mins @ 356F
Flame Red* -25 mins @ 356F
White Pearl- 15 mins @ 325F
Clear*- 25 mins @ 356F
Bright Green*- 25 mins @356F
Yellow*- 25 mins @ 356F
Red- 10 mins @ 400F
Purple*- 15 mins @ 356F
Glow Overcoat- 15 mins @ 375F
Brown* -25 mins @ 356F
Blue- 18 mins @ 375F
Silver- 15 mins @ 400F
Gold- 20 mins @ 375F
Watermelon Pepper15 mins @ 395F
Watermelon 15 mins @ 395F
Pumpkin Brown 16 mins @ 395F
Smoke* 25 mins @ 356F
Green Pumpkin* 25 mins @ 356F
Dark Watermelon* 25 mins @ 356F
June Bug Flake 15 mins @ 395F
Root Beer Flake 15 mins @ 395F
Watermelon Flake 15 mins @ 395F
Copperhead 15 mins @ 395F
Red Bug 15 mins @ 395F
Ruby Slipper 15 mins @ 395F
Baby Bass Green 15 mins @ 395F
Dragonfly 15 mins @ 395F
Pearl Pepper 15 mins @ 395F
Sapphire Blue 15 mins @ 395F
Black-Blue Flake 15 mins @ 395F
Glitter Topcoat Colors* 25 mins @ 356
All Standard Glow Colors- 15 min @ 375
Transparent Candy Colors* 25 mins @ 356F
Standard Glow Colors 15 mins @ 375F
Super Glow Colors* 26 mins @ 356F