Braid for spider rigging

I have 12 lb braid on all my rods from 4 foot up to 16 foot. I run it because I love to pull cranks for crappie and you never know what you are going to hook up with. I want to begin doing more spider rigging. The times I have tried it with the braid, the braid becomes tangled very easily. I thought about placing the egg sinker and then a smap swivel on the end of the braid. Then making leaders out of 6 lb mono with a loop on one end and either a jig or minnow hook on the other. I figure the mono will keep everything from tangling and break off before the main line so all I have to do is retie the hook or snap on another one. Has anyone ever tried this?

that is exactly how I do it. Maybe try using pre made snells or make your own. I use a swivel instead of snap swivel so I just tie a new piece of mono on when it gets to short. I put a plastic bead between sinker and swivel, some egg sinkers have a huge hole in them, gets stuck on swivel.

Get yourself a "dollar store" pool noodle and cut it down to about 6-8" sections - tie jig heads or your Crappie hooks on a leader with a loop knot on the opposite end - leader line should be less than the breaking strength of your main line (braid) - pre-tie a dozen or so of these leaders and wrap them around the noodle section, embedding the hook last in the wrapping process, to hold the leader on the noodle. (and even if it should "somehow" blow out of the boat, the noodle will float and is easily retrieved)

Bassing 53 has some good points ... whether you use a swivel or snap, if you use barrel sinkers, use a plastic bead between them. I use one big enough to not get shoved up into the barrel sinker and has a hole in it that's big enough to go over my knot. This keeps the barrel sinker from wearing on the knot, and keeps it from getting the snap or swivel jammed up into the hole.

This is basically how I rig up for Pushing jigs. It would work just as well for Spider Rigging. I can easily re-rig if I get hung and have to break the leader ... and I can easily switch out plastics (styles & colors) on my jigheads. All I have to do to switch over to Pushing cranks is cut the main line & put on a heavier barrel sinker, then tie the main line back to the snap. All I have to do to switch over to Spider Rigging is slow down my speed & add a minnow to my jig/plastics.

My 3 long rods (14') have 30lb test braid, 17lb test braid, and 10lb test mono .... and my leader lines are all 6lb test. I don't experience any more 'tip wrap' with the braids than with the mono. If I need to cut the braids, I have a pair of Child Size Fiskar Scissors in my tackle box for that purpose.

Tie up your own Capps and Coleman rigs out of 12 lb mono. Use a short 4 in dropper on top. Helps keep from tangling. Just tie on a DuoLock snap to main line then you can change out Riggs quickly.

Use braid all the time, with 8# mono leader. Keep weight on the braid and you will have less trouble with wraps and tangles.

Tied some rigs this weekend. Ready to give them a try.

I use braid the only problem I have is if the line starts freezing. I tend to dip the tips in the water when they freeze. I use 15 lb depth finder. and 8 lb leader.

Don

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Originally Posted by Bassing_53

that is exactly how I do it. Maybe try using pre made snells or make your own. I use a swivel instead of snap swivel so I just tie a new piece of mono on when it gets to short. I put a plastic bead between sinker and swivel, some egg sinkers have a huge hole in them, gets stuck on swivel.

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I started using bead to snap swivel to swivel on leader.
I keep individual spare leader tied to jig head in a plastic bag. Helps for quick change


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