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Green corrosion inside carb. Ethanol maybe? I used stabil. Pullled carb. Looks like corrosion on the brass parts. This stuff doesn't clean up with carb cleaner. Ordered a new carb. Overhaul kit with all the parts was more than a new carb. Got new carb for 27 dolla from Home Depot on line.
What going on here?
Etttttttttthanol! collects the water!
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The "Green" stuff probably looks very similar to what you will see on copper water pipes due to condensation and the flux paste and solder that is used.
One intersting thing I found about Sta bil that might be of help. Look closely at what it says in regards to the standard product and the 360 product. Notice that it says "keeps fuel fresh" on the standard BUT... on the 360 product it says " protects against ethanol-related damage" and "Both STA-BIL 360°® Formulas will keep fuel fresh up to 12 months and provide protection to the entire fuel system". Key wording is ENTIRE fuel system. It makes no mention of this on the standard product which, by default, is simply designed to be put in a storage container. Remember, it doesn't remove the water, just keeps the fuel fresh.
[B]MYTH #3: “ALL STA-BIL PRODUCTS ARE THE SAME, JUST DIFFERENT COLORS.”
Nope. Each product is specially designed to address and prevent a unique set of problems.
STA-BIL® Storage fuel stabilizer keeps fuel fresh for extended periods - up to 24 months.
STA-BIL 360°® PERFORMANCE™ protects against ethanol-related damage, and provides a boost in performance and mileage economy if used at every fill-up.
And our STA-BIL°360® MARINE™ fuel additive protects and helps engines that perform in the damaging, water-laden environment marine equipment faces every day.
Both STA-BIL 360°® Formulas will keep fuel fresh up to 12 months and provide protection to the entire fuel system - above and below the fuel line. So in the end it all depends on what you would like to focus on -prolonged longevity, power/fuel economy or condensation management.
https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools...myths-debunked
Ethanol is murder to small engines due to the vented fuel systems that most of them use. Water in the air is water in your fuel. I have seen all different colors of corrosion in these things . If you leave fuel in your equipment make sure you fill the tank and mix the proper amount of stabil with the fuel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cane Pole
And Good Luck our fuel isn't getting any better and emissions is making it any easier to repair either.
I used the stabil storage stuff. Wasted my money. Been using it for 4 years in the engine per instructons. Stuff is kinda like Roundup. Goes up on price and covers less.
Don't feel bad Cane Pole. Until I found that article I posted yesterday, I "assumed" I was covered as well. It made sense but was eye opening for sure. I wonder just how many of us out there thought the exact same thing? I've done some research and seen a few studies in recent years that steered me away from their products anyway. Like many on here, I now use seafoam.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cane Pole
I am constantly reminded by one particular researcher I listened to when he said... "no product on the market can get rid of water". Not really sure how the stuff works but my assumption is that the mixtures companies use are designed to not allow the water and fuel to seperate? I wish I had the best answer.
I picked up a 4 wheeler from a friend of mine for next to nothing (purchased it for my daughter). They said they put over $400 dollars in a new carburator and couldn't get it to run right. I got it fired at my house and it would only run on choke. I knew it was fuel. First thing I did was pull the fuel petcock off the tank and discoverved that the reserve side has/had a small extension about 1/4 inch that was fractured (due to fuel being stored in the tank and breaking down the plastic component). There was pieces in the reserve side. I assumed those peices traveled down to the new carb. I pulled the fuel line (clean) and continued tracing. Pulled the carb completely apart, inspected all needle jets, floats, and so on. I blew into the fuel line connection and noted that I could get very little air through it. Put my compresser on it and out popped a piece of plastic. Reinstalled and it ran like brand new.
Had the company they took it to did their due diligence, they would have found the root cause of the issue NOT to be the carb, but the pieces being sent to the carb from that plastic tube being broke down.
The Owner pages (that I had to print out) had 1 page English. English on this engine says E10 ok with no warnings.
Got it going with the new carb. This engine had a mix of metric and SAE bolts. Made in china bolts and screws.
I will keep the old carb and rebuild it. I have 2 briggs engines that use this carb.
I started using this: Premixed 40:1 Fuel | TruFuel 2-Cycle Fuel for 2-Stroke Engines It don't go bad, and was recomended by small engine technician. Little pricey, but can will last quite a while. Figure what it cost for gallon of gas and the oil, then you may not use it all and have to disgard. Not to bad a deal. Get at Lowes or other places. Walmart has some other brand, but have not tried it.