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I was told today to never jump your start battery if it goes dead on the water. Was told it will destroy part of internal charging system. Can't remember the exact part. Anyone ever heard this? I've jumped mine before and don't think I hurt anything. I have been told if you ever go dead and switch out with one of your trolling batteries to not disconnect the battery again while it is running. Said it would destroy same part. Thoughts?
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I'd like to hear some replies on this.
I carry jumper cables in my oil box and have jumped many over the years. Hasn't hurt anything to my knowledge.
So much new stuff on the market now though, who knows. Rickie is Mr Wizard in electronics.
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I've heard both of those statements, before ... and I've done both of those things on a previous motor (1984 Yamaha 70HP). The motor did not suffer any effects, as far as I know, and was still running like a scalded dog when I sold it 15+ years later.
But, like what's been mentioned ... best consult with more learned people.
The ONE BIG concern I've heard about, besides the "possible" damage to the internal electronics, is the creation of "SPARKS" !! Most everything I've read says to open the bilge area (if that's where your batteries are located) and leave it open for ~15mins, in order to allow any combustive gases to escape ... BEFORE you attempt to hook up any cable connections.
Voltage regulator rectifier is the part in question. Like i said earlier I have jumped mine also. Have also switched batteries out with deep cycle a time or two to get me back to the marina but I've never pulled the battery out and switched with motor going. That's a pain. I like keeping jumpers because almost everyone will jump you in an emergency.
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You do not have to have to go to the trouble of switching a trolling motor battery to the starting position.Disconnect one side of the start battery and use(suggest you carry it with you in the boat) a pair of 10 or 12 american wire guage (awg) wires from TM battery to the outboard.Please use red n black to keep pos n neg correct.Start the outboard,remove your jumpers and reconnect the weak starting battery-The outboard's alternator will charge it so long as it's running.
You can use 10 or 12 awg because the outboard's starter draws relatively low current.Works fine - you will not hurt anything so long as polarities are right.
I see on Amazon 16 foot jumper cables in 10 gauge for around $16. Wouldn't that work? Also, why remove one side of the start battery cable and not both. That's the area I was told if you remove either cable the charge has nowhere to go and will destroy the rectifier. Just asking because not sure. I do like thought of not pulling to battery regardless.
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Disconnecting one side of the weak start battery removes the load of the weak battery so the TM battery can deliver higher starting voltage. You could disconnect both sides of the start battery but it gains you nothing. Do whatever you want-but it makes no difference,just a bit more hassle.
For what's it's worth my workplace has 2 trades in maintenance,mechanical maintenance technician (MMT)and electrical maintenance technician (EMT).I've been an EMT since 1984. You can believe what you want about your boat batteries.The voltage regulator limits alternator output to keep from overcharging the batteries.....That's it
Sounds good. You can tell you know more about it then the guy who scared me about this topic. What about the 16' jumper cable in 10 gauge. Should that work? I appreciate your help. I'm just trying to prevent screwing anything up and spending unnecessary money.
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Yes if you have room in the boat carrying regular jumper cables is fine. The benefit of the 10 or 12 awg wires is you can roll them up and put them in a sandwich bag.That is much easier to store and works just fine.You could do either.