Fixing to tie up some Kentucky rigs...weight on the bottom...what tricks do you have to make them easily the same length each time
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Fixing to tie up some Kentucky rigs...weight on the bottom...what tricks do you have to make them easily the same length each time
I have Jigs built so that every rig is EXACTLY the same. Have them for minnow rigs, jig rigs,etc. I keep them made up so that when I'm on the water all I have to do is unroll and tie on.
I just took a price of 1x6. Put a nail in the top and have marks for top hook leader length, lead, and bottom hook.
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I just get mine close...might be a inch difference in some of them....the fish don't seem to care.
Tie a Snap swivel on top of the rig after sliding two Fas Snaps on the line. Tie each Fas Snap in a loop knot as long as you want and as far apart as you want. Put another Snap swivel on the bottom. Serves multi functions. You can change one or both baits, and you can change the weight on the bottom to another size. You can also cut off the bottom swivel below the second Fas Snap loop and use two jig heads of the same or varying weights and styles. It's the most versatile rig I tie. I used them with two 1/4 jig heads the past week without the bottom weight.
BRM
I use a piece of cardboard. A sharpie to mark where I want each item to be. A thumb tack to hold the loop or snap swivel in place at the start.
Bill, what # line?
I always use Silver Thread AN40 in 12lb line for my rigs. It's a copolymer line with a smaller diameter than its rated. The 12 is more like the diameter of an 8-10. I use silver color which is what the call their clear. It stores for long periods of time without getting old or brittle like florocarbon does. That's my choice anyways. I've been using it literally for decades.
BRM
I use Carolina keepers. They're adjustable and don't slip. No knots to tie. If I happen to break off (my dropper lines are lower lb. rating than mainline) then I have several on a 12" piece of line. I'll tie an overhand knot between the line with spares and the line on my pole, then slide the rigs over the overhand knot onto the line. It's fast.
That Carolina rig there is for winter fishing- basically a drop shot for crappie. The other is for typical dropper line fishing. The chain link just holds to the bottom better. I use to use chanlinks instead of regular weights when I spillway fished for flatheads- it doesn't hang up in the rocks near as bad. If the wind is bouncing you, but the fish are 10 feet deep in 20 fow, then slide the hooks up to 10 feet and set that duck decoy weight/ chainlink on the bottom and point the rod tips up higher to compensate for the waves. Now your bait is sitting dead still regardless of wave action. It's deadly in the winter on finicky fish.
Need to change over to a C&C rig? 1/4 oz jigs? Crankbait pulling or pushing? Easy to do. Beats the heck out of having a set of poles for each method. Best way I've found thus far to adapt from deep water kentucky rigging and bush bumping to shallow water grenada-style single jig pushing on the flats without re-tying everything.
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Sewing department at Walmart
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