In a 7' rod, what is the best rod action and power for pulling planer boards? I am considering a Southern Crappie Rods 7' rod with medium action and slow power. Would this be a good rod for pulling boards?
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In a 7' rod, what is the best rod action and power for pulling planer boards? I am considering a Southern Crappie Rods 7' rod with medium action and slow power. Would this be a good rod for pulling boards?
I'm going to say no not knowing the rod. I'm using 6.6 and 7 ft med hvy to hvy bass rods with a stiff tip. Those boards put a lot of strain on your rods. For the money I think I might try a couple of these.
https://northwoodsoutlet.com/product...-trolling-rod/
The below is an excerpt (authored by me) taken out of a trolling series I am writing. It is located in chapter 3: Trolling rod selection...
It is a longer read but hopefully will answer your questions...
Planer board rods are probably the most utilized form of trolling in Michigan waters. Unfortunately, many fisherman overlook what they are using. As a result, they get limited performance of a bait or planer board. Not to mention the loss of feeling after the planer board is released. Limited performance of a planer board? Read on for the answer.
Many guys are using heavy duty “lead core” or “copper line” rods to run crank baits for walleye. Yes, they do work (with some exception) however I attribute the end result (fighting the fish) to utilizing a broom stick. Simply put, would you use a musky rod to jig fish for crappies? This is where the “one size fits all” guy comes in to play. Many of the rods produced for lead core applications are heavy duty and designed to pull the massive weight and resistance associated with those lines. Many of these rods are designed specifically with the salmon angler in mind. For me, first and foremost, when planer board fishing, I always ensure the rod says “Planer board” written on it at some point. For walleye fishing, the next thing I look for is the weight. I prefer a medium weight with a medium or medium fast action. The rod needs to be stout to the centerline and then have some give out to the tip. The reason for this is to allow for the planer board to move in the water. On a day with waves over one foot, a very stout rod (like the many lead core rods guys use) will cause the planer board to bounce out of the water. It actually pulls the board towards the boat. You can only imagine the adverse effect it has on the bait being towed behind it. I planer board specific rod will allow for flex in the tip. This allows the rod to flex with the waves ensuring constant contact with the board and water. This will eliminate improper releases of the boards in rough seas and also allow the bait to stay on plane in the water without being altered by “board hop”.
Planer board rods come in two piece or telescopic rods. Two piece are becoming harder and harder to find. Telescopic rods are the most common. I prefer the two piece rods. When you put a telescopic rod in a vertical rod holder while you are moving from one location to another the rod has a tendency to come lose and retract into itself. I don’t like that. They also come in two handle configurations (traditional strait handle, and trigger handle). The last few years I have gone exclusively to the trigger style. The reason for this is it gives me something to hold on to (one handed) while letting out line. They also come in many handle lengths. For me, I cut most of my handles down to size with a dremel tool or a hacksaw. I do not like to have a ton of handle sticking out of the rod holder (and into the boat). If using a tube style rod holder, I don’t like having it stick out super far. I also do not like having to try and quickly remove a rod with that much handle. I purchase all of my planer board rods from Gander Mountain. Although I am a custom rod builder and could build a great rod, I simply cannot compete with the price. These rods take a beating and I would much rather beat up a 50 dollar rod as opposed to a 200 dollar piece of equipment. When purchasing my rods I always purchase two warranties. This way, when or if one breaks (one will break), I can take it back and replace it. I always purchase four 7.5 foot rods and four 8.5 foot rods. The reason for this will be covered in another lesson.
Planer board rods perform equally well as a straight line trolling rod and a bottom bouncing rods due to the flex of the rod. It will not “hop” the bottom bouncer off the bottom.
Planer board rods (i.e. walleye style are lighter powered than Great Lakes/salmon and work better for me).
MH with planer boards.
Thanks for all the great advice. I ended up ordering 2 Gander Mountain rods with medium power and moderate action. The boards I am using are really small so I think these will work well. Can't wait to get them!