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ON MY 998 I HAD SET IT UP FOR A SLANTED DUCER WITH ALSO A EXTRA 2D DUCER WITH SWITCH AND CABLE,MY QUESTION IS I WOULD LIKE TO SET IT UP WHERE I CAN USE SWITCH AND A DI DUCER THAT HAVE A 2D PIZZEL IN IT ALSO,IS NOT THERE A WAY,WHAT DO I NEED TO DO? I AM PUTTING IT ON FRONT AND WANT TRUE DI AND SI ALSO AT THE TOUCH OF A SWITCH.GOT A NEW 1199 FROM BRAIN AT BACK AND IT IS AWSOME ,ALSO HAVE 859 AT BACK WITH IT ,THEY MAKE A GREAT PAIR:biggrin
THANKS RICKIE, SO U SAY IT TAKES 4 DUCERS TO GET TRUE DI THIS WAY AND 2 SWITCHES? I BE BETTER OFF THEN TO USE SLANTED DUCER ,THAT WAY ONLY 3 DUCERS AND 1 SWITCH, I WAS HOPING THAT DI DUCER COULD USE DI AND 2D FROM SAME DUCER ON SWITCH THEN FLIP SWITCH AND BE BACK TO SI,THANKS WILL THINK ABOUT TRADING FOR ANOTHER 859 AND DO WITHOUT SI, HAVE TO THINK FOR A WHILE,LOVE THAT 998
The 60° slanted XHS 9 HDSI 180 T xducer (in your 998 setup) will give you more detailed "true" DI than a HB dedicated DI xducer ...
The SI piezo (you have slanted) is longer than the DI piezo in any of the HB DI xducers ...
Longer piezo = thinner beam = more detail ...
The only piezoes longer than the XHS 9 HDSI 180 T are... LSS 2, Raymarine CP200, and some of the new Garmin xducers ...
Rickie
Of course, you can eliminate the slanted xducer/AS SIDB Y cable/2d ...
And simply use the HB TS3 switch between the HDSI (for SI) and the XTM 9 WIDE DI 20 T (for true DI with 83kHz/200kHz) ...
But... the slanted HDSI will give better true DI than the XTM 9 WIDE DI 20 T because of the longer SI piezo in the HDSI ...
Rickie
THANKS RICKIE, GOING USE SLANTED DUCER FIRST,I RECOND.I KNOW IT HAS GOOD PICS