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does anyone here know the best procedure for drying a fresh white haired goat hide with the hair on? My pet goat of close to 20 years has died and she has real nice white hair, I was thinking that alot of hair swatches that we buy for jig tying seem to just be dried, same goes for kiptails. Im thinking about scraping the underside of the hide and then stretching it on a wooden frame, don't want a bunch of salt in the hair to corrode my hooks when tying.
Never done anything that big but any small skins I scrape the hide and get any meat or fat off. I wash it in dawn dish detergent rinse then put hair condition on the hair side and rinse again. At this point I get as much water off as I can, take an old brush and run it through the hair and get any loose or tangle spots straight, then tack the skin hair side down to stretch and cover the whole thing with borax till dry.
I took a good look at the animal tonite after getting home from work and a lot of the hair is not as long as I thought so decided not to mess with it, thanks doug for responding.
Would have been hard for me to skin headbangger if it was a pet, you doing the right thing. Just saying :pray :biggrinQuote:
Originally Posted by redear
yeah stumpy, I think you are right about that, it would have bothered me in the end.
I flesh deer hides.....I use a 6" round drainage pipe and made a apron from rubber flaps used from roofing company. I then wash hide like FM. I have stretcher made out of 8' 2'x4"'s. If you want to flesh and not stretch....after washing I lay the hide hair down on chicken wire (water will drain with correct pitch). I use salt (used for cattle from FS store) 50 lb bags for $5. This salt is as fine as table salt. Cover the skin side about two" thick. 2 days later come back and scrape off old salt and reapply. Another option is Borax from farm stores same procedure but not as heavy.
3rd option is Deer Hunters hide tanning formula purchased at either Cabelas, Bass Pro shops or other places. After fleshing the hide lay out "hair down" and apply this cream to the hide. Use a small brush and basically paint on to the skin (smells like apples). Let dry for about 48hrs and completed.
All three above ways to skin and tan will leave hide "stiff". If you want to "loosen" hide to be flexible for a "rug" texture I use 1/2" manila rope tied between two trees about 6' high. Throw hide over rope skin side down and start the process of back n forth. When you think you are done keep going. If you start this process above 32 degrees the more likely of slippage of hair. If you are above freezing flesh same day at least. Worst case put in freezer and get back to it later. If you plan on storing in freezer you can fold hide in half skin on skin roll up and good.
If you use salt there is no worry about corrosion of hooks unless maybe you would palmer the material. I do the same procedures above for coons and possums. The perk is my trapper friend does the fleshing. One other trick.....after fleshing put hide in freezer laid out if possible for 24 hrs...will kill all bugs. If you do not elect to do that get a RAID flea spray prior to process. Either way most hides have ticks n fleas and you do not want them in the house or on the pets!
Need more shoot me a PM.
thanks plateboater, thats good info there!