clear coat question

I am going to powder paint a bunch of 1/16 jigheads for a guy who gave me some lead and he wants them black with a red eye and a black dot in the center of the eye. I will bake the heads before putting on the eyes and I want to put a clear coat over the heads after the eyes cure, will be using testers enamel for the eyes. I need a clear coat that won't soften the powder paint which excludes the vinyl clear gloss, anyone have any suggestions for a clear coat? I know they have a 2 part epoxy finish but I know nothing about it, I mean do you mix it and then dip the heads real fast before it thickens and sets up? lol

red - easiest way is if you have time get some of the paint pens from CS http://www.csipaint.com/products/mar...nt-markers.php powder the heads then paint the eyes on and then cure normally.

if you don't want to use the 2 part mix you can get this stuff also from CS Seal Coat a one part epoxy http://www.csipaint.com/products/liquid-coatings/epoxy-top-coat-lure-jig-paint.php The only bad thing I've heard about this one part is don't use it on White or Chartreuse heads it yellows them after a while.

The 2 part you mix equal parts A/B, I used the bottom of a soda can and mixed some a bit at a time - your eyes have to be dry before you use it or it will smear the testors.

try a two part rod epoxy like flex coat lite or even lite thread mater any thing lite so it does not build up as much. what i suggest is mixing it with the syringes that are graduated for rod finish like that flex coat make and sells. all you need is like two pea sized amounts but they got to be mixed 50/50 or they will not harden up... now two ton and 5 minute is the wrong way to go they harden and turn yellow to quick.. you can get the rod finish at mudhole.com etc.. etc... all i do is apply it with a tooth pick before i tie the fly then let them hang upside down make sure the wipe excess off every ten minutes for the first couple hours. so it does not leave sags on the jig head. i use a block of foam i got tooth pick in to sit it on the tooth picks stuck in the foam and set the foam upside down on the tooth picks... any ways mix the epoxy for like 5 minutes with a tooth pick real slowly not to create bubbles if oyu use a brush to mix it the brush end will create bubbles just a tip. mix till not marbled any more then apply. it easier said then done i am sure you will get it done...by the way you can tie thousands of jigs with just one 4 ounce kit of "epoxy rod finish" any ways wish you the best.

i use non wax plastic dixie cups to mix the epoxy up by the way the rod finish does not yellow like the other two part epoxies. by the way if you use the brush endto mix, it will foam up and cause bubble to stay in the clear coat.

Clear coating - As far as clear coat, my preference is clear PC which is not always practical.

Most common is using sally hansons hard as nails clear nail polish....... It works very well. It does not give the depth and gloss that you will get from the epoxy's but is fast and inexpensive.

Epoxy coatings are great but a lure turner is IMO mandatory to get a uniform coating free of sags and runs. Probably the most readily available is Devcon 2 ton epoxy 30 minute.

I use etex because it has a longer pot life and dry time which lets me have a thinner CC and I feel better coverage. A 4 ounce kit from a craft store will last a long time

Some concrete sealers are being used and sound convenient, just dip and let drip dry, use a toothpick to remove the drip from the end. Price is not bad but smallest QTY is 1 gallon which will last forever. Menards has the one most commonly used and that is GST International High Gloss Wet Look Lacquer.

http://www.menards.com/main/landscapeestimator/additionaloptions/sealer/gst-international-high-gloss-wet-look-lacquer-concrete-sealer/p-1762089-c-5651.htm


As far as eyes, I use a lot of 3D eyes because I like them. They need a recessed head to look right which is why so many posts are seen regarding pinned molds.

I do my eyes a couple ways. I dot with a toothpick usually using an air brush paint just gotta let dry before clear coat.

My favorite way of doing eyes with PC is to spread a thin layer of the eye color on my bench. After coating main color, quick reheat to make the gloss and then tap each side of the head in the eye color. Takes a bit of practice but after a while you can make perfect round eyes and have them neatly centered. For the second eye color same thing applies just a thinner layer of PC on the bench top. I usually use 2 1/16 wires as a depth guide to make my first color and some 0.020 wire to control depth for the center of the eye.

Some colors work well and some do not. Also, I have found that white primer is often needed to make the eye color pop.

Alternately, you can use self adhesive flat eyes and lock them in with clear coat. The flat eyes are getting harder to find as everyone seems to want the 3D eyes which are great but you need to have a "pinned" mold or they do not look right (Bug Eye) and make a ball head head look like a football! You can also flatten the head to accept the 3-D eyes but that is a step that takes practice to get it right. For a 1/16 ounce jig head a 3mm or 1/8" eye is about right. Most of the flat eyes can conform to the head

thanks guys for all the suggestions!! today I found a quart of black lacquer paint in my shop that came from a fishing spoon maker who also sells paint, also found some white under coat primer, didn't realize I had the black. I have used this paint before in a red glitter and it was very fast drying and very hard and tough, and I think I have used vinyl clear gloss over this paint in the past, I may have lucked out on this find. I think I'll some up with this setup and see if the clear gloss works over this lacquer.