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Is Lead Shot, as in the Shot used to load Shotshells suitable for pouring Jigs?
The reason I ask is because I have 15 1/2 lbs of Shot I would like turned into jigs.
If it is, I would like to find someone who pours jigs in Western Kentucky. I will supply the lead, and you will supply the hooks and labor and we can work out the split.
Message me here if you would like to discuss the proposition.
I have bought shot at garage sales before and used it to pour jig heads with. I believe it would be pretty pure lead but I am not fore sure. I would probably want to cut it with some stuff that I know is 100 percent lead. Just to be sure it is soft and mold able.
Bobo
If you can't find anyone in Kentucky to help you out, I may be interested.
Just pure FYI
Lead shot is classified by its antimony alloy content as either chilled or magnum. Antimony is the metal used to harden lead. Antimony is a brittle flaky, crystalline metal with a density of 6.7 grams/cc. Lead, when alloyed with antimony, becomes a harder pellet. As more antimony is added, the overall density of the pellet is slightly reduced.
- Chilled Lead Shot is softer and slightly denser than Magnum lead shot. It is better for short-range applications. Many shooters, like Don Zutz, prefer the increased density of chilled lead for hunting loads. Chilled lead shot usually contains about 2-3% antimony.
- Magnum Lead Shot is harder and slightly less dense than Chilled lead shot. Harder shot is more prone to retain its spherical shape during the firing sequence. Some shooters prefer Magnum's hardness advantage because it will likely pattern more predictably than softer shot. Magnum lead shot usually contains about 4-6% antimony.
Friend gave me some last year. It must have had a lot of the Antimony because had a lot of rescue when I fluxed it. But once I got it clean it poured really well. Would suggest fluxing it separate from your pouring pot first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cray
:hesaid
I melt, skim, clean and flux all of my lead in a 12 inch wide by about 4 inch deep cast iron skillet outside using a propane jet ( 88K BTUs) . The propane jet will literally boil 50 pounds of lead. It will turn a lead brick that weighs around 30 lbs to liquid in about 15 minutes.
I put all of my lead in this pot carefully making sure there is no moisture inside of it. I also keep a lid close by to put on top of the pot, in case I see it starting to bubble. After the lead melts, I will skim off the top layer and discard in a large metal can. This stuff if junk and not even worth your time to mess with. I will then lower the temp for a few minutes and then reheat. Again I skim the top of any slag that is left. I may do this a couple of times, depending on how dirty the lead is. I will then take either beeswax or piece of long candles and put into the pot. At this point the top of the lead is going to turn completely black. I skim this off a few times after the wax has completely melted and spread itself across the pot. The use of the beeswax or candle wax is also known as fluxing.
At this point, I will start putting the now very clean lead, into ingots. The lead should actually look like silver at this time. I myself prefer to use an 8 oz bank sinker mold for this. There are a couple of reasons I use the bank sinker mold. One it is an easy way to keep track of how much lead I have in inventory. 2, I can fit four of these ingots easily into my production pot at just about any time to start making jig heads, sinkers, or weights.
I use a Lee production pot for pouring my jig heads and sinkers. I know they say it is only good for up to one ounce sinkers but I have actually poured 8 ounce sinkers with this mold. I will leave the mold on top of the production pot for 15 to 30 minutes before I start pouring to preheat the mold. I have very little problems with having to repour due to either the lead being dirty or the mold being to cool using this process.
CAUTION AND WARNING. Always wear long sleeve shirts, jeans, and boots when playing with this stuff. It will burn you like you have never been burned before. I think the melting point of lead is somewhere around 600 or 700 degrees ferenheight (sp), I think it boils around 900 degrees. Also be sure to wear heavy gloves when handling hot lead as well as eye protection.
I hope this helps some folks out.
Bobo
This great information. The shot I have is Magnum.Quote:
Originally Posted by KAG
This is also good information and why I was looking for someone who already does this. I really don't want to start pouring. Many years ago I had access to the Machine Gun range where I was stationed and we sifted out hundreds of pounds of 45 ACP rounds and melted them in a cast iron skillet, picking out the copper casings with a long hemostat. The scary part is that I did this on top of the gas stove IN THE KITCHEN! No fans, no gloves, no nuthin'. Not long ago I visited a shop where the guy was pouring bullets and marveled at his set-up with an elaborate ventilation system, leather apron and gloves that came up to his elbows. It made me remember my younger more foolish days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobo Greybeard
Anyway, thanks for the input. I considered selling it to a reloader but very few if any reload shotshells anymore. There is a shop nearby that pours his own jigs and sinkers so I may see if I can work out a trade with them.
Thanks again.
Your safety is of utmost importance when handling molten metals. You should see what molten bronze does when just a half ounce goes down your boots! Saw this happen many years ago when I worked in a foundry. The guy always wore his pant legs inside the top of his boots with his boots not laced up! Horrible.... You guys be careful!