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Looking at a 1998 fiberglass deep v, the guy says the gel coat is in OK shape but isn't shiny in areas. I was told one time that as long as the gel coat isn't rough feeling it will buff out and be fine, is this true? Is there anything I should do or take with me if I go to look at it to know if the gel coat will buff and be OK before buying?
If its a solid color gel it really doesn't matter if it's rough felling or not just as long as it's not gouged up or spider cracked really bad. You can wet sand and buff to make it look like a new one. The rough texture comes in to play if its a poly or metal flake color. The flake is mixed in with the clear coat and if the clear is wore down enough where you can feel the flake you will have a hard time making it look new again with out shooting it with clear.
Here is a 86 model bullet I bought this year and wet sanded and buffed out and it turned out great.
Here is what it looked like before. you can tell how oxidized it was by looking where the decals were.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps5ac0af45.jpg
Here it is after sanding and buffing and a new set of decals
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...psd35f67e0.jpg
Here is another where I had half of one side done
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps9c901230.jpg
Thanks for the info. ,very helpful. You did a nice job on the boat in the picture.
I would be more concerned of the transom rather than the gel.
About the only way to check the transom is to pull a bolt out and check the wood with a screw driver.
If you dont feel the flake you will be fine for buffing. If you have to sand, be cautious with any corners. There wont be much gel on the corners and its easy to get into the flake. If you burn thru it will look like crap.
I always sand by hand. No issues with burning through. Buff with 3M prodcuts...I know others are good...but you CAN see a big difference using 3M. Its more the effort it takes to use the product.
PM me if you need any help.
As for the transom check there is one way that has been good for me and referred to me by other that do boats for a living. A small hammer, metal or plastic, of just a few ounces, and tap around on the transom. Start in corners above the waterline and you will hear a solid report when you tap. Then move down towards any hole and the bottom of the transom that would have been wet for extended periods. The sound of a soft transom is quickly evident as being a dull thud, much different from the solid sound from the dry areas. Also moving the motor up and down into and out of the transom saver MIGHT show the tiniest bit of movement, and none is acceptable. My mechanic is about 150 lbs and he stands on the decavition plate and bounces a little to find transom movement. I do agree that it is one of the most important parts of buying a used glass boat. Good job on the buff out 99jav. Just an old slow boat, huh? lol