I had to share this with you guys this is a very good post by ctom.
this is a post on using dividing plates for the second color it has a ton of information for you beginners. This is from Jacob's baits form.
ctom
A lttle on lamination plates
« on: Today at 03:54:40 pm »
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Lamination plates are simple a blank 1/2 of a mold to allow the user to easily shoot half of a bait so a second, or top, color can be injected over it and have nice clean lines. Lam plates are a godsend for most people. A quick question here or at other mold makers' web pages can determine if the mold in question can benefit from a lam plate.
As always, there seem to be questions surrounding the use of the plates. I'll try to address a couple of the issues that seem common when these plates are used.
A big issue seems to be de-lamination of the two colors of plastic. The fix is easy.
1. You'll get far better results if you shoot the belly color and then shoot the top colors within a day or so of each other, the sooner the better. If time doesn't allow this to happen and you've shot some bottom halves, just be sure to give them a bath in denatured or rubbing alcohol and dry them making certain that the mating surface is wiped with a soft towel or paper wipe. Cured/curing plastics can exude some fine oils that create a film and hinder the bonding process. Being absolutely certain that the surface of the plastic shot earlier is clean and oil free will go a long way to creating a tight strong bond between the colors.
2. Try shooting the half-plastic in a softer plastic. Softer plastic will require less heat from the second or top color to bond tightly. I add softener to just about every color I use for the belly shot.
3. Holding some light pressure on the injector AFTER it has stopped when injecting will help to keep the hot plastic well pressed onto the mating surface and that allows optimal heat transfer. It also helps to vent any air remaining in the mold cavities so bubbles and dents don't become a problem.
4. I like to use a piece of medium grit sand paper and "just barely" scuff the mating surface of the lam plate. This leaves a scored surface on the resulting plastic that helps to hold things together. Shiney, flat surfaces can come apart because the shiney portion wouldn't allow the surface tension to break. Having a slightly scored surface gets rid of that surface tension.
Shooting lam plates saves a ton of time and they also allow for super professional looking baits without spending a ton of money or using excessive amounts of time. Using the plates also reduces the amount of working plastic required to achieve great results, meaning your baits cost much less.
Here is an example of a lam plate with the cavity side of the mold along side it. The lighter colored palstic is the belly or bottom half that results when the lam plate is used for that shoot. Notice that I have removed the tail portion from one of the lighter plastics to show how I trim the bottom half to go back in the mold. I prefer to not have a laminated tail section since it just doesn't do anything for a tail as thin as this particular mold shoot. A thicker tail in abnother mold would likely be left as it is when it comes from the belly half shoot. If you look closely at the light plastic you can see the clean flat edge that the lam plate provides. The complete bait shows how fine the finished product is. With or without eyes, baits done with the lamination plates will be clean and sharp to the eye and will not come apart at the seams, something that many retail baits do regardless of how much they cost.
sorry picture did not come out but you can go to Jacobs form in seeing the picture.
