Need Rigging Advice...

because I want to get this right the first time. My TM mount bracket has all but come loose from the bow of the boat. Shotty manufacturing IMO, the metal on the bow is weak and has quite a bit of play. This creates tons of movement/noice in the TM, even before all the screws stripped through the metal. I need to take the TM and TM bracket off and reinforce the bow somehow then reattach everything. I just want to get all your thoughts and advice before I go screwing things down. My main concern is keeping the boat looking professionally rigged and neat. I also want to make sure that any modifications I do don't mess anything up functionally and that I set myself up now for additional accessories and my most frequent fishing method. So, some notes, pics, a video, and some questions are below. Help me out here guys; I am a newbie to boat rigging. I have tried stuff before that seemed simple like this only to find I created more issues.

1. Note my front seat is offset to the left side of the boat.
2. Note how long the TM shaft is. Is that too long? I think there are two adjustments to shorten it, but can I adjust without messing anything up?
3. My initial plan is to cut a piece of plywood to fit the bow deck, carpet it w matching boat carpet, reattach bracket and TM.
4. I want to move a FF and GPS and mount up front that don't interfere with TM deployment.
5. I am buying a set of Hi-Techs for spider rigging and that is primarily how I fish. I think due to the distance of my seat from the deck, I will have to mount rod holders on the floor a little further back to ensure I can easily reach the rods.
6. What is the best way to wrap the plywood in carpet or should I attach it first then glue carpet down?
7. What is the best fastener/screw to attach plywood to thin aluminum on the bow?
8. What am I missing?

Attachment 89806Attachment 89807Attachment 89808Attachment 89809Attachment 89811http://youtu.be/ErDoJWSi1hc

This Pic is 2 yrs old but the best one I could find at this moment, I had a piece of aluminum welded to the rail on the side of my alumacraft and riveted to the bow.. This keeps the TM to the side giving you a more stable spot to step onto the boat. and my T Bar (few rod holders short in this photo lol) Is opposite to keep any possible tangles to a minimum. There is Wood under my aluminum on my bow, I floored the boat myself,battery is up front under seat... Have since upgraded to two hummingbird ( one color up front....One Color,GPS, with Navionics chip 385CI in back but transducers and mounts are interchangable) Have two driftmasters on small t bars on each side of the rear for longlining, or pulling corks. The boat is setup perfect for the type of fishing I do. I have a MV1448 with a 4S 9.9 Merc, does 16-17mph alone, 10-11 with two big guys

Be sure your FF and TM are wired seperately, zip tie wire down transducer wire on TM, make sure you leave a little U (extra 2-2.5 in of slack) at the part where it spins, a bracket can be purchased to install Tranducer to TM I paid like 15 for mine at BPS Id move that seat forward a hair and center it

Hope this helps, If I can help in anyway letme know

Thats the best way. Weld a plate on the top rail and bolt to deck on the inside.

I love that option; I do not have or have access to a welder though. I am going to talk to some guys that work in the auto body industry; surely they could help me with something like that? Any other suggestions as to a type of company that could do that type of fabricating and professional alum. welds?

I have plan B. You will need a piece of 1/4" aluminum to go from the front of the deck to the back edge, about 2" wider than the mount. Remove the mount from the boat and clean it up as best you can. Mark the edges of the plate and scuff the top of the deck. Drill and countersink the holes for the screws to mount the plate to the deck. Layout where you want the mount to go and mark this on the plate, mark it's location and the holes to mount it, add a few if you think it necessary. Drill the holes for the mount in the plate, and countersink them from the bottom. You will attach the mount to the plate, then mount the plate to the deck. The screws for the mount will point up. Buy a tube of 5200 silicone in the color you want, and no, all silicone's aren't created equal. 5200 is made for marine applications and sun exposure. Silicone and attach the mount to the plate using fiber lock nuts and the right length countersunk screws so that the ends don't stick way up, or maybe acorn nuts with a spot of silicone inside to keep the grabby points out of the way. Then tape along the outside of the marks on the deck, and put a line of 5200 a little back from the edge of the plate and screw it down tight but not overtight. Some silicone will ooze out the edge, leave it alone as it's on the tape. Leave this alone for 24 hrs and let the silicone set up, it adds in adhesion and stops all vibration. When it's set, take a utility knife or razor blade and cut along the edge of the plate and remove the tape leaving a clean edge.