Trolling Motor Shaft Shortening?

I am looking at a Minn Kota Powedrive V2 that has a 60" shaft. I would need to shorten the shaft so that everything would fit under my boat cover.

Has anyone ever done this on this type (electric steer) of trolling motor.

The only reason I am considering this instead of buying a new one is the price is right on this motor.

Thanks for any help.

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Originally Posted by jigsbydirk

I am looking at a Minn Kota Powedrive V2 that has a 60" shaft. I would need to shorten the shaft so that everything would fit under my boat cover.

Has anyone ever done this on this type (electric steer) of trolling motor.

The only reason I am considering this instead of buying a new one is the price is right on this motor.

Thanks for any help.

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I think someone has done this. I think on the Mississippi board.

I had the shaft on my Terrova shortened. Lance at grizzly jig did it for me, since he is a certified MK service guy, and I didn't want to risk losing warranty. It is a very simple thing to do though, wouldn't hesitate to do it myself, if not for the warranty issue.

Well found out that the shop that has the motor for sale will cut the shaft for me and still have the warranty. Needless to say I drove down there and gave them the money. :-)

I shortened the shaft on my Powerdrive last night. I bought it used with a 54 inch shaft and needed a 48. The only issue I had was a small nick in one of the wires thru the shaft when I went to drill out the new holes for the head unit. I fixed that pretty easily. I cut mine with a hand hacksaw and took my time. I cut the extra wire length off and installed new connectors. It took me about an hour and my motor was out of warranty so I figured I didn't have much to lose. Everything works fine again. Most of the time in my experience, the worst part of a job like this is getting over the worry about doing it.

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Originally Posted by mrdux

I shortened the shaft on my Powerdrive last night. I bought it used with a 54 inch shaft and needed a 48. The only issue I had was a small nick in one of the wires thru the shaft when I went to drill out the new holes for the head unit. I fixed that pretty easily. I cut mine with a hand hacksaw and took my time. I cut the extra wire length off and installed new connectors. It took me about an hour and my motor was out of warranty so I figured I didn't have much to lose. Everything works fine again. Most of the time in my experience, the worst part of a job like this is getting over the worry about doing it.

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That's right just do it!

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Originally Posted by mrdux

Most of the time in my experience, the worst part of a job like this is getting over the worry about doing it.

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I second that. Usually when I get done doing a job I've never done before I look back and think "Geez, that was pretty easy, nothing to it"

Well, except for that time I tried brain surgery, that didn't work out too well...:eek:

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Originally Posted by mrdux

The only issue I had was a small nick in one of the wires thru the shaft when I went to drill out the new holes for the head unit.

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I saw on another site, I know, I am a slut, that they slid a copper pipe over the wires to protect them as they cut the shaft, as in a copper water pipe. BPS has liquid electric tape in the boating area, around the lights and such, which you could also use if you nick a wire. At work we use it on applications where there is steam and are extreme temperatures you'll never see, and it holds up very well. The shaft being carbon might actually conduct, so you don't what to leave a nicked wire exposed, some might think it is just plastic or PVC, but it has carbon fibers and could conduct electricity under the right circumstances.

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Originally Posted by Lou

I saw on another site, I know, I am a slut, that they slid a copper pipe over the wires to protect them as they cut the shaft, as in a copper water pipe. BPS has liquid electric tape in the boating area, around the lights and such, which you could also use if you nick a wire. At work we use it on applications where there is steam and are extreme temperatures you'll never see, and it holds up very well. The shaft being carbon might actually conduct, so you don't what to leave a nicked wire exposed, some might think it is just plastic or PVC, but it has carbon fibers and could conduct electricity under the right circumstances.

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If you have a US2 in there it is pretty tight no room for a copper pipe Maybe Thinwall conduit.

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Originally Posted by wilbur

If you have a US2 in there it is pretty tight no room for a copper pipe Maybe Thinwall conduit.

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That's a great idea!