Brainstorm for my floats

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...alsaFloats.jpg

They are on the way. I got 50 of them for like $20. Some of you have seen my ones I made:

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...eadFloats1.jpg

I need some brain storming on different things to try in order to get s swivel secured to the bottom end of these. In the picture I use nylon sleeves over a dowel with the barrel swivel pushed into it. Problem is I don't have any other sizes of the barrel swivels that have the nice tube shape barrel on them. There are lots of sizes of nylon so that isn't the issue but there might be a problem securing the swivel in the nylon, or maybe just in the bottom end of the tube. I don't want to damage the integrity of the tube by drilling it or otherwise deforming it.

Any suggestions before I get started, hopefully on Monday? It doesn't have to be a swivel but I want a completely clean loop down there, no edges like you find on hook eyes and such.

You might try a product called heat shrink tubing. When heated it shrinks to about half it's original size. It's available at most auto parts stores or maybe even Wally World in the auto section.

one thing to keep in mind if you heat shrink on float tubes. I had a project going once where I was using shrink tube to install a glass bead in the top of slip floats. I found that I had to put a large needle in the tube because the heat would cause the stem to shrink right along with the tube.
You might try heating the stem on a junk float to see if it will shrink on it's own without the shrink tube. That would secure the swivel securely. Illinoisgiller

Epoxy in the end and one of these


Attachment 29695

The eyes have sharp spots on them that could cut line and cause the float to stick otherwise I would use them. A swivel prevents the float from getting twisted up to which helps prevent break offs. I supposed I could use shrink tubing over the end to cover the part that could cut the line. Will have to see if I can make one work the way I want it to.

I am not sure shrink tubing will work well though but I have not tried it yet. I have noticed with other things that it tends to wear out and stretch some over time which could lead to the swivel slipping out on a cast. More options though which is good.

Attachment 29702

Attachment 29703


Drill a hole in the end and use one of these !!

Or drill a hole through the end and not use anything.

Or slide a bead up the end ,line the hole up in the bead ,drill a hole through the bead and super glue the bead in place

What exactly are you trying to get them to do with the modifications. A slip bobber doesn't get any easier!!!

Fatman

I want a quick change ability with as little play as possible. I fish in so many different condition for for so many species here that I can go from using a 1/64 on a super small float to using a 1/4 ounce on a really big one. I just want to have a full arsenal for changing conditions and not have to retie, ever if possible.

I just know that I have lost a lot of floats using light gear because of even the smallest sharp point on anything. And when casting time after time floating rivers I need to prevent line fray as much as possible. I suppose that for crappie and such it is not as important but when dealing with 20# steelhead using the same floats as I do for crappie and trout I need all the advantage I can possibly get to prevent a lost fish.

Versatility more than anything and to be honest, I hate throw the middle slip floats. They never work right for me, line gets caught and doesn't sink right or the cork gets cuts in it catching the line and everything else. And braided line has a tendency to ruin even the best floats I have ever used store bought.

Maybe I am making it too complicate but when I fish for 20+ species with the same floats I need them to be easy to use and fast to change. If there was a quick change option that I could put right on the line I would use that but haven't found such a device yet. For now, I put the swivel on the float and either put on a sliding snap on my line or fix it in place with the swivel on my line already.

The lure eyes wouldn't knick your line anymore than a hook eye would. I'd go that route and some epoxy. If you're worried, bury it in another 1/16" where the curled part will be covered with epoxy and can't cut anything.

Man the only thing I can think of is use ifish's idea with the eyelets and on your main line make a loop and attach a duo lock snap to connect it to the eye. Might be even the clicking sound would help attract the fish.

Just an idea now that I understand what your doin.

Fatman