First why would you want to?? is the mold giving you problems that by changing how you pour would negate having to do it??
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For you guys with lots of experience. What are the pitfalls of opening up the pour hole on a DO IT mold?
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Charlie Weaver USN/ENC 1965-1979
First why would you want to?? is the mold giving you problems that by changing how you pour would negate having to do it??
Well, Doug I have trouble getting my 1/16 ball to completely fill some times. I did mod it to take a #1 sickle. I was just wondering if opening the port might help that. And I will try anything you suggest.
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Charlie Weaver USN/ENC 1965-1979
There may be a better way but when I was pouring I discovered if I kept my mold hot I got much better results. Since I only used 1 mold at a time I kept it on top of the Lee pot while I was tinkering and even when I was putting hooks in it. This helped keep it much hotter until I got it ready to pour lead in it.
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Bill H. PTC USN Ret
Chesapeake, Va
I've never moded one before - I can only guess that if you open it up you're going to end up with a bigger head spru to cut off, which might alter the head shape. I take it you elongated the eyelet slots to allow for the bigger hook?? Now if you're using a heavier wire hook that might be causing your lead flow problem. Usually on any head you can go up or down one hook size.
Eye slots is what I modded. I have same problem whether I use the #1 or even #4. It seems that the lead pools on top to quick. I have tried keeping warm as Bill suggests. It just gets frustrating. The spru part is what I was concerned about. Since I only pour for myself I'm not in any hurry when I pour. Really appreciate your input.
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Charlie Weaver USN/ENC 1965-1979
The gate area is good on all do it molds I have used, IMO it is a big mistake to open it up. Gates will not break clean resulting in a lot of extra cleaning.
First - has your mold been smoked - can really help with fill issues. Alternately a fine coating of talcum powder also aids in filling, If you are really motivated some drop out from frankford arsenal will also do the trick
Second try a bit hotter metal
Third or maybe first, flux your metal until it is perfectly clean..
Good luck and keep us in the loop.
A lot of the molds from Do-It are designed for bronze hooks. If you mike the red or coated sickle hooks you will see they are a little bigger than the bronze hooks. When you pour, the hot lead out gasses and keeps the mold from filling using bigger hooks because of the gas pressure in the cavity will not escape down the hook shaft. The gas has to go some where. Try tilting the mold a little but be very careful and not run the lead on you. Of course preheat the mold and use very soft clean lead. I sometimes open up the hook slot in very, very small increments until I can get it to pour. The pro molds are really bad about not filling all the cavities. Go slow and really watch and not get into the cavity walls or you will ruin that jig hole. I would highly suggest not to mess with the gate unless you see a defect. Buddy
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Thanks for all the input guys. I really appreciate it. I keep my mold warm, I use pure lead, I flux it every time I pour, I have tried different temps on the pot. I tink Ifish probably has it right on the gassing. That's the only thing I can think of. It will pour the head but not always fill around the hook shaft to form the barb part. I will sit down with it and see if there is anything I can do in that respect.
Proud Member of Team Geezer
Charlie Weaver USN/ENC 1965-1979
Cray,
Quick question for you. Is this a production pot that pours out the bottom or are you dipping a ladle and pouring with that?
IF it is production, try a ladle as you can control the pour better. If you are already using a ladle, what size are you using? I was pouring 3/4 Oz jigs awhile back with a big ladle and had the exact same issue. I switched to a smaller ladle and dip into the lead between every jig (on larger 3/4oz jigs). There are a ton of factors that can cause your issue including weather and humidity. Another trick is to alter your rate of pour. I used to think I was going to fast and having the problem when in actuality, I was going to slow.
The other thing I have found is the "exhaust" ports if you will. Air has to be able to escape from the mold as you are pouring. On one of my molds, I have to turn the thing to an angle of about 2 o'clock to get the best pour. Make sure those groves are not plugged. You can file them out a little bit but too much and the lead will seap out. I use small cutting torch end cleaners.
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