I'm with LedHed on hook size,I use #6 most of the time, sometimes you have to downsize baits to improve catch rate...Gut hooking fish is just unavoidable sometimes, if i gut hook a fish it goes home with me if its a legal fish...
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I don't think it does stop gut-hooking. Goddard's point (and he's not the only one to make it) is that kirbing improved hook ups, particularly with small hooks.
I just posted it as a response to Techno's comment about Richard Gene bending the hook.
I'm with LedHed on hook size,I use #6 most of the time, sometimes you have to downsize baits to improve catch rate...Gut hooking fish is just unavoidable sometimes, if i gut hook a fish it goes home with me if its a legal fish...
Well I don’t like gut hooking fish either. Here’s an interesting observation. Using the Daiwa Gekkabijin jig heads even in a #6 I’m still deep hooking fish. I don’t disagree about what has been said but here is another interesting observation. I have these jig heads in hook sizes of #6.....#8.....#10. The #10 hook is same size as our #8 hook......the #8 hook is same is our #6.....the #6 appears to be our #4 size. According to Plat #10 is a #10 the world around...and so on. I had used TM jig heads for a whole lot of years....they are #8 hook and I don’t recollect ever having any deep hooking issues. I used a lot of custom jig heads #8 off of eBay....and from some crappie.com members and I didn’t have the issue with any of them. As to the canted hooks I will try them as I purchased them months ago...just haven’t used them. Hook size I’m sure plays a part but I can only assume sharpness plays a part also. But anyway....I’m going to continue to use the Daiwa jig heads and fish on.
Regards
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I think that since lighter jigs like .5 grams have less resistance fish suck them in easier and tend to be more deeply hooked than heavier jigs. About the only size that I have an issue with is my 1/80 chubs with #12 sickle hooks when I tip them with a wax worm or maggot. No problem at all with a 1/32 on a #10 or bigger hook.
Thanks for the comments. Not sure there is any conclusion as to the why of this. Here is pic of the Daiwa hooks compared to some domestic hooks. The top hook is a #8 Trout Magnet hook. Under it is a #10 Daiwa hook. Next is #8 Daiwa hook......next is a #6 Daiwa hook. The bottom 2 are a Jungle Jim Jig with a #4 hook and a Crappie Magnet with a #4 hook. So when I am gut hooking with a Daiwa #8 hook it is actually the size of a domestic #6 hook. Using a Daiwa #6 hook is actually the size of domestic #4 hook. Anyway for those who are looking at these jig heads......and there are several on here who use them already.....it is safe to say the Daiwa Gekkabijin light game jig heads ordered at a stated hook size is actually a size up. Not sure what to make of that but as the saying goes “it is what it is”.
Regards
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Hmmm. I bought the 1.5g #4 and 1g #6 JDM jigs. Might have to order some 1g #8 for bream. Next time I go after crackers (when this dang rain stops) I have some TM heads that I'll try with the worms.
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I haven’t tried most of what you speak of. The majority of what I use are sickle #8 and #6, with a nod to the #4 for crappie. I seldom gut hook any of the gill varieties but occasionally do with a crappie. I tried some #10 sickles a few years back and had issues with gut and deeper hooking issues and no longer use them, or any other 10 or smaller hooks. Also don’t get many “ bumps or hit and spits” as I got before the sickles.
As for the kirbing that DBD spoke of, Ive been doing that for over 40 years. Started that with double offset worm hooks that were built flat for the most part at that time. Eagle Claw came out with the 45 automatic hook a few years later that also worked well with a bend that rotated the hook as it was pulled between their lips, giving a much better hookup ratio. The kirbing ( never knew it had a name) almost eliminated the pull free factor entirely for my brother and I. All this said, I can see that it would be a help if pull free issues were a bother.
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