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Here's the way Todd explains the issue with braid...when braided line wraps around the rod tip and pressure is applied (maybe by setting the hook) it can cut into the graphite. Then when you set the hook on a big fish...it can break. And regarding hooks that can be straightened out, he says...he likes hooks with no flex. They can be driven into the bony part of a crappie's mouth better and not miss the bite. The reason braid is helpful on rods with very soft tips (ones that start bending mid-rod) is that the rod is absorbing the feel of the bite. Huckabee rods are designed with a great backbone and stiff tip so they don't absorb the "feel of the bite (the thump)". The thump transfers all the way to the handle. That's why many of Todd's clients say, "these fish hit harder than crappie on my lake". They bite the same, but they are feeling the thump with a stiffer rod.
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Great explanation with detail Ken. One reason I don't fish braid on a lot of occasions is braid has no stretch and it makes it much harder to sling shot or rubber band the jig off of wood or a rock when it gets snagged. So using mono I am able to save a lot of baits with clients in the boat....saving baits means saving dollars......now I didn't say I didn't use braid cause I do when the technique dictates it......Ranger
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That's also a good point Mark. I guess what is important is finding out through trial and error what works best for you and in what situations. I'm just now learning about braids and have alot to learn. But I also have some personal opinions that won't mean anything to anybody but me because of how I fish.
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Very informative thread. I have never had any braid on any of my rods or reels in my lifetime. I have been thinking about giving it a shot. Thanks for the information folks.
Bobo
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Heard some conversation at the show about Berkley's Nanofil line. No stretch but not as abrasive as braid. I've not used it and don't know anything more about it. More info on it at cabelas.com.
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I have tried the Berkley line and certainly didn't like it at all. But that's just one opinion. Heck they may have improved it since last year who knows.....Ranger
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Just exactly what is proper drag set when fishing braid? Does the rod dictate that? We dummies need all help we can get. Thanks
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Hat it's not Rocket Science. Lol. Sorry Buddy I couldn't help it. You was to back off the drag enough that hooking a fish doesn't rip line off but hooking a tree limb does. There is a fine line between that setting I know. I just back off the drag enough that I can pull it off the reel with my hand easily. If you hook a fish and it slips tighten it up a little. Best I can do. It's all trial and error.......Ranger
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I know I am alittle slow Ranger! BUT MY BOAT DID PASS INSPECTION ! Sorry buddy I couldn't help it. LOL Even if we can't catch fish we can have fun. I appreciate all your help on things. Remember it's guys like me that make you look smart.
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Hat55, very good question. I am not an expert and look forward to comments for others. Here is what I have read.
Drag the amount of force at which the reel give up line to keep the line or pole from snapping (the weakest link in the system). The unwritten rule for drag is simple. Whatever the strength of the line your using, divide it by 4 and thats how much pound of force it should take to get the drag working. This is correct for line "only" Connect the line to an accurate scale, back up 5-6 ft. with the rod tip at a 45 degree angle the drag should slip at the above calculated force. Example: 12# braid divided by 4 equals .. 3 lbs. But as you know not many crappie rod are designed to swing a 3 lb. crappie in the boat. I have not seen too many crappie rods designed to even swing a crappie larger than 3/4 - 1 lb. in the boat and UL maybe only 1/2 lb. ( then as Todd said, if up get the line around the tip and don't notice ) you have "0" drag. You would be surprised how much force is at the rod handle on a 10ft. rod with a 1.0 lb. drag. Hope the Big Guns get on here and line us out. dj
