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Thread: Planer Board Help

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    Default Planer Board Help


    Has been a lot of talk about these things lately and I have a question. Say you are running 5 boards off each side I understand that the further outside the longer the line out to the board, that's how I pull cranks and longline as well, so reeling in a fesh is no issue the way I see it, raise the pole and work the fesh into the center and reel in. Question is, when replacing that board back to the spread do you just let it out the back to the length it was and let it pull back in line??
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    John, I've never pulled more than 3 off one side, but if I catch a fish on the outside board, I rotate the middle board to the outside. Then I move the inside board to the middle and put the former outside board on the inside. Just keep the rotation going. It sounds a lot more complicated than it actually is. Just let out about 20 more feet of line on each remaining board and put the new one on the inside. No tangles that way.


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    I believe you have to let the other ones out more and make that one the inside.



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    I am not doubting yall cause I haven't done it but thought it might work. Gonna try some maybe if the need arises I will be prepared.
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    Default Planer Board Help

    Quote Originally Posted by Rees Guide View Post
    Has been a lot of talk about these things lately and I have a question. Say you are running 5 boards off each side I understand that the further outside the longer the line out to the board, that's how I pull cranks and longline as well, so reeling in a fesh is no issue the way I see it, raise the pole and work the fesh into the center and reel in. Question is, when replacing that board back to the spread do you just let it out the back to the length it was and let it pull back in line??
    It's hard to clear the line out on the other poles from the outside unless you're using a short line out from the board to the crank. Gotta free spool the outside rod with the fish in tow a LONG way back to get to the center of your spread. Can't image doing that with 5 poles per side. Here's how you shuffle them tho.
    http://youtu.be/GY1MkxQb6pA

    When you reset the reeled in rod, you just put it out in the third position straight out the back. This works perfect up to about 100' of line out from the board to the crank. You gotta free spool that 100' back to clear, and a striper or catfish don't help!!!
    Last edited by BigRiverMarine; 06-29-2014 at 09:04 AM.
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    I use a mast system. Each line moves outward by releasing a few feet of fishing line from the reel to the clip, allowing the clip (on shower curtain ring) to slide outward on the planer board line connecting the mast to the board. New rod becomes inside rod. Takes less than 3 minutes to preform.

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    Im thinkin a mast is the way to go.



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    I don't see why if the board floats you cant just let it out the back and when the line gets tite it swims in place, I do this with cranks all the time and it works like a top. Coarse not everything works in real life as it does in theory.
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    Good info!I saw in the video that they were fishing with their rods in a vertical position. With the planers attached to the line it lays flatter on the water thus being able to raise the rods higher without affecting pulling depth, also making the planers ride a little higher in front.The shifting of the rods to center was good but a slimer or stripe will do that for you!LOL!I fished planers years ago and just the extra weight makes for an interesting fight but when the planer slides back toward the fish it seems to help surface the fish and skate them to the boat.I mainly used boards on the 2 outside rods only but I was just experimenting at the time and didn't really see the value in putting the lines outside the boats path which is very important in clear water especially with boat shadow, ping of sonar, and trolling motor prop noise.Gonna have to break out them old Yellow Birds again and give them a try!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rees Guide View Post
    I don't see why if the board floats you cant just let it out the back and when the line gets tite it swims in place, I do this with cranks all the time and it works like a top. Coarse not everything works in real life as it does in theory.
    It's hard to calculate where the is out behind the board for me. If you set the board to soon, it can dive the crank across the other lines and we all know what happens then. I'm sure there are several good ways to accomplish this, but I haven't found a good video of that on YouTube. Every one shows using them, but no one has showed much about bringing in the outside boards in with a big fish, and lots of line out behind the boards.

    Come on Timmy Skarlis, we need ya to educate us.
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