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Scott when you go to splice it, trim back the outer insulation enough that you can cut your wires offset from each other so that the connections are not next to each other. I slide a large piece of shrink over the cable, then use a small piece on each solder connection. Like G said coat with with liquid elect ape then slide large shrink over it all and seal.
Scott, Harbor Freight has marine grade adhesive heat shrink tubing. It has a layer of glue on the inside and glues itself to the cable. Gives the utmost in waterproof protection.
My SIL works in electronics with all the stuff to repair the cable and will do it, cost some crappie fillets.
Good deal Steve
I was in the water at Sardis Friday up to my boobies, and i was getting splenty of 'tube shrinkgae' with NO HEAT period.
We just need to find a way to keep the cable out of the bind at the depth lock nut on the TM. Maybe a lock tie above and below with a bow in the transducer cable.Quote:
Originally Posted by "G"
Most the ones that I have seen that are not useing the built in ducer...just have a long loose flap of cable flopping from top to bottom. I did see one guy that glued his with silicone caulking in the grove in the TM shaft......I would think you would have to partially dissasembe the TM to do that....don't know for sure how they did it...but it was tight in that slot or groove.
"G" , you take the head off the trolling motor to enable the wire to be fed into the channel and through the depth lock.http://www.crappie.com/crappie/fishi...cer-mount.html
Thanks sat.....you da man
I saw that but I'm too chicken to try it.