Planer Boards

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Originally Posted by sailfish1

tommy, do you guys use different length rods with the boards you guys use. With the ones we use, we use longer rods up front and go shorter as you go back to get the outside fish around the other boards

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Sailfish1 - that is an intelligent way to do it and if it is working for you, I would recommend to stick with it. To get the outside fish around the other boards, or to try to prevent lines from "crossing" on turns, I use rod holder extensions on the forward or front rod holders. Two feet on the forward/front, one foot on the middle and a plain rod holder on the rear. For the sake of duplicating successful presentations, I prefer to keep everything identical: Rod length, model, action, reels, line and also the amount of line on each reel. When "rotating boards" - identical lengths work great because they work in any rod holder: front, middle or back.

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Originally Posted by LowePro

Well..... did anyone ever take a video on how to get a big fish in past the other planer boards?

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Got it on the list LowePro - but I will try to explain how I prefer to do it:

With the bigger Off Shores - I will do one of two things:
1. "Clear" the lines between the boat and board with the fish on it, then once the fish is in the boat - "reset" all the lines.

2. Let out line and "Drop" the inside boards back far enough so that the incoming fish does not hook the line. This will take some practice, but keeps your other lines "fishing" while you are reeling in the fish.

With Crappie - I will reel them in fairly fast - rushing water through them that will temporarily "Chill them out" and it also makes them come to the surface, allowing them to ride over the other lines. Key is to keep the boat moving forward so that tension is kept on the fish - keeping it hooked and on the surface. Not always failsafe - even with extensive "Board-pulling-experience" (Disclaimer - not recommended when something big like a catfish, drum or bass, etc. is on the line! :biggrin)

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Originally Posted by Tommy Skarlis

Sailfish1 - that is an intelligent way to do it and if it is working for you, I would recommend to stick with it. To get the outside fish around the other boards, or to try to prevent lines from "crossing" on turns, I use rod holder extensions on the forward or front rod holders. Two feet on the forward/front, one foot on the middle and a plain rod holder on the rear. For the sake of duplicating successful presentations, I prefer to keep everything identical: Rod length, model, action, reels, line and also the amount of line on each reel. When "rotating boards" - identical lengths work great because they work in any rod holder: front, middle or back.

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What kind of rod holders / extensions do you use?

Tempress Fish-On! I close the ring and slip the rod into the front ones like a "rocket launcher" or tube-style rod holder - that puts the rod tip up even higher.

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Originally Posted by Tommy Skarlis

Tempress Fish-On! I close the ring and slip the rod into the front ones like a "rocket launcher" or tube-style rod holder - that puts the rod tip up even higher.

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Thanks.....That's everything now except the reel and line:cheers2

I use the Abu Garcia 6500 LC and the 5500 LC - but the smaller 5500 has been disco'd. Line - I've been using Trilene XT 10-pound test Moss Green (low-vis) for well over 20 years (I put fresh on every year) I fill the spool about 1/3 to half full with backing - usually with a line from a bulk spool of 17# Trilene Solar I've had for quite some time.

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Originally Posted by Tommy Skarlis

(Disclaimer - not recommended when something big like a catfish, drum or bass, etc. is on the line! :biggrin)

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Tommy,
What do you do if this happens on the outside board. Even with a big Eye, they don't surface so easy like a crappie.

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Originally Posted by BigRiverMarine

Tommy,
What do you do if this happens on the outside board. Even with a big Eye, they don't surface so easy like a crappie.

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In that case - I will clear all the inside lines or "free-spool" the boards back. Another set-up would be to use a light release on the front of the Off Shore and the "pinned" OR-16(red) in the back - and release the front - allowing the board to swing around the other lines, but I don't do that much at all. Often times, each fish-on is handled on a case-by-case basis, taking into account things like: 1. how fast the fish can be reeled in or "pulled to the top" by speeding up the big motor. 2. Amount of line out on the inside sets. 3. Where the fish takes the board (Out, In, Back) 4. Matter of urgency (Tournament, Big fish, really need only one more for dinner.)

When in doubt - clear all of the lines.

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Originally Posted by royboy78

Tommy how long of a leader do you run from the tadpole to the lure and how do you adjust for the dive curve with that set up. And what's the advantage of that setup over off shore snap weighs

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I usually use a 4 to 6 foot leader. Playing around right now with a tadpole equipped with Off Shore OR-16 releases (the Red Clip with the pin in the center of the pad) so that we can place the Tadpole 10 to 40 feet from the crank - depending on water clarity or rough water "surging"! We've found that snap weights work better than in-lines/three ways after cold fronts - but now with the "snap Tadpole" : The game may be changing!!!!

As far as the dive curve being different with added cranks - I use the dive curve as a guideline and duplicate the amount of line let out on successful programs = In other words, I set out different length leads (say 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 and 35) and let the fish confirm the number. Current, style of crank, speed variances etc. all change the variables and sometimes you gotta be careful about "going by the book".

Thankyou so much for you advice!