Thanks Tommy for the reply. Been trying to use braid and so frustrating I had just about given up trying to learn how to use them. Appreciate you getting on here and helping out with your knowledge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy Skarlis
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Thanks Tommy for the reply. Been trying to use braid and so frustrating I had just about given up trying to learn how to use them. Appreciate you getting on here and helping out with your knowledge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy Skarlis
The only time I use "hardlines" trolling is when I need to go to a thinner diameter to get the bait deeper. Example would be to take a #4 Salmo Hornet down past what 150 FOL (feet of line) would take it with mono - 10 pound test fireline has the diameter of 4 pound mono - and at 150 FOL would take the bait 2 to 4 feet deeper. If you are using Superlines, you will need to "wrap" the line around the releases or use an Off Shore "Snapper" release.Quote:
Originally Posted by cray
I also don't use hardlines around timber - it has a tendency to "saw" into the wood and the crankbait snap gets stuck. When around timber I will switch to 17 pound test Trilene XT Solar. When the rod tips and the boards start shaking from "rubbin' the trees" - I will stop the boat and let the baits and line "float up" off of the trees and then troll forward until I see the baits moving through the trees again - then repeat the stop and go process. This also triggers strikes. In open water we call it "ringing the dinner bell".
Tommy what size flicker shads do ya use for crappiea
I use size 4, 5, 6 and 7 but mostly 5 and 6. The 7's are a little "radical" in the action department, especially for cold water crappie. Earlier this year, we smoked 'em on 5's and 6's at Lake of the Ozarks using a diving device called: Tadpole by Off Shore. We caught most of the fish 20 feet down but some were caught as deep as 60.
Tommy how long of a leader do you run from the tadpole to the lure and how do you adjust for the dive curve with that set up. And what's the advantage of that setup over off shore snap weighs
Attachment 166449Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdux
Thx for the price tip Mrdux. Got mine today. May not be as good as the Offshore, but they were cheaper to learn with, and they look fairly close to my buddy's OR-12's. I am gonna replace the rear clips with my Offshore ones. I've been using them for snap weights so I have a bunch of em.
Good video on how to make your own tattletale flags. I made one and it works. The hint is to use a washer thick enough to prevent cutting into the styrofoam.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLqcnvIxym0
question! what is the eye screw on the side near the rear for?????
The wire for the Tattle Flag goes through the screw eye. Heres a good video that shows how the Tattle Flag works:Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomer Snerd
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGfBHJGKCcY
Nope. On the other side. But thanks anyway.
That is where the release goes if you don't have a Tattle Flag kit installed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomer Snerd
Now that sounds correct
I wish someone would make a video on how to get a big fish reeled in from the outside board with lots of line out behind the boards with the tattle flag on em when using 3 or more boards per side.
If you ride with me and Cray Saturday morning you can shoot the video yourself.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRiverMarine
Fixed it for you!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRiverMarine
I wanna ride just for the entertainment!!!!!!!!! Will shoot the vid tho!!Quote:
Originally Posted by yikess
It's for adding these when not using the tattle flag so you line can be snapped free from the front clip and slide towards the fish. You put a barrel swivel and a bead on the end of you main line and a leader to the crank to stop the board from hitting the fish. http://northwoodsoutlet.net/store/in...roduct_id=2662Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomer Snerd
Product not found. bet it would be a swivel of some sort.
You gotta deal!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by yikess
The link works for me, but you are Correct Sir!!!! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomer Snerd
I like the Long version!!! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomer Snerd
Here are a few different ways you can rig a planer board:
Attachment 166952
Well..... did anyone ever take a video on how to get a big fish in past the other planer boards?
tommy, do you guys use different length rods with the boards you guys use. With the ones we use, we use longer rods up front and go shorter as you go back to get the outside fish around the other boards
would like to see a video ,what length rods do yall use
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailfish1
this might have been asked before but I didn't find it anywhere
what type and action of rods do you guys pull boards with also what lengths
7 foot medium heavy. (All identical for easy rotation) I have tried Medium but kept breaking the last six inches off. Never broken medium heavy.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Opti Tackle Planer Boards - YouTube
This board comes with a stationary flag for 12.99 each side, or the working tattle flag for 18.99 each side at Northwoods Wholesale Outlet.
I've been using 8'ers because I already had them, but the rod length should be 6-8' long so you can reach the board to remove it when you reel in a fish or change baits. No long poles needed for this technique. Use the shorter rods you already have as long as they have a stiffer action to pull the boards.Quote:
Originally Posted by yikess
Almost all (well over 90%) of the planer board anglers I know pull Off Shore's with Medium-Action Rods that average 8 feet. Rod Action is important - especially in rough water: Too Stiff of a rod and the board will "surge" too much, too light of an action doesn't work as well either. For the larger OR-12's - I prefer Medium Power/Moderate Action 8-foot St. Croix EYECONS (model # ECT80MM) that were specifically designed for use with planer boards. I have put these rods to the test (and I mean I have really worked them over) for 4 years and have not broken one yet. (Disclaimer: I have not tried to imitate the ugly stick commercials! :biggrin)Quote:
Originally Posted by short grub
The smaller Off Shore OR-34's were designed to be used with just about any fishing rod.
Sailfish1 - that is an intelligent way to do it and if it is working for you, I would recommend to stick with it. To get the outside fish around the other boards, or to try to prevent lines from "crossing" on turns, I use rod holder extensions on the forward or front rod holders. Two feet on the forward/front, one foot on the middle and a plain rod holder on the rear. For the sake of duplicating successful presentations, I prefer to keep everything identical: Rod length, model, action, reels, line and also the amount of line on each reel. When "rotating boards" - identical lengths work great because they work in any rod holder: front, middle or back.Quote:
Originally Posted by sailfish1
Got it on the list LowePro - but I will try to explain how I prefer to do it:Quote:
Originally Posted by LowePro
With the bigger Off Shores - I will do one of two things:
1. "Clear" the lines between the boat and board with the fish on it, then once the fish is in the boat - "reset" all the lines.
2. Let out line and "Drop" the inside boards back far enough so that the incoming fish does not hook the line. This will take some practice, but keeps your other lines "fishing" while you are reeling in the fish.
With Crappie - I will reel them in fairly fast - rushing water through them that will temporarily "Chill them out" and it also makes them come to the surface, allowing them to ride over the other lines. Key is to keep the boat moving forward so that tension is kept on the fish - keeping it hooked and on the surface. Not always failsafe - even with extensive "Board-pulling-experience" (Disclaimer - not recommended when something big like a catfish, drum or bass, etc. is on the line! :biggrin)
What kind of rod holders / extensions do you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy Skarlis
Tempress Fish-On! I close the ring and slip the rod into the front ones like a "rocket launcher" or tube-style rod holder - that puts the rod tip up even higher.
Thanks.....That's everything now except the reel and line:cheers2Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy Skarlis
I use the Abu Garcia 6500 LC and the 5500 LC - but the smaller 5500 has been disco'd. Line - I've been using Trilene XT 10-pound test Moss Green (low-vis) for well over 20 years (I put fresh on every year) I fill the spool about 1/3 to half full with backing - usually with a line from a bulk spool of 17# Trilene Solar I've had for quite some time.
Tommy,Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy Skarlis
What do you do if this happens on the outside board. Even with a big Eye, they don't surface so easy like a crappie.
In that case - I will clear all the inside lines or "free-spool" the boards back. Another set-up would be to use a light release on the front of the Off Shore and the "pinned" OR-16(red) in the back - and release the front - allowing the board to swing around the other lines, but I don't do that much at all. Often times, each fish-on is handled on a case-by-case basis, taking into account things like: 1. how fast the fish can be reeled in or "pulled to the top" by speeding up the big motor. 2. Amount of line out on the inside sets. 3. Where the fish takes the board (Out, In, Back) 4. Matter of urgency (Tournament, Big fish, really need only one more for dinner.)Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRiverMarine
When in doubt - clear all of the lines.
I usually use a 4 to 6 foot leader. Playing around right now with a tadpole equipped with Off Shore OR-16 releases (the Red Clip with the pin in the center of the pad) so that we can place the Tadpole 10 to 40 feet from the crank - depending on water clarity or rough water "surging"! We've found that snap weights work better than in-lines/three ways after cold fronts - but now with the "snap Tadpole" : The game may be changing!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by royboy78
As far as the dive curve being different with added cranks - I use the dive curve as a guideline and duplicate the amount of line let out on successful programs = In other words, I set out different length leads (say 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 and 35) and let the fish confirm the number. Current, style of crank, speed variances etc. all change the variables and sometimes you gotta be careful about "going by the book".
Thankyou so much for you advice!