My thinking would be if they had to take the old one out to inspect it it would be real stupid to not put in a new one in the first place. just saying
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I recently had a gill net wrap around the prop of my 200 horse Mercury. I took the seal off and checked it and you couldn't tell where the outside of the seal began and the monofilament line ended. Line was sticking out everywhere. I had trimmed off all the line sticking out before taking it off and noticed the seal itself looked good.
I didn't trust it so I took it in and had a mechanic look at it. They said they tested it and there were not any damages. They said the put the original one with the frayed line back on because the seal was still good.
My question is should they have gone ahead and replaced the seal and put a new one on in it's place instead of putting the old one back on? It was right there in front of them and it shouldn't have cost anymore to do it than the cost of the seal. Time shouldn't have been a factor since they had it for 10 days.
Is this the way most dealerships would have handled this or should I be looking for someone new to work on my boat next time? I'm not a mechanic by any means but would think going ahead and putting on a new one would make sense.
My thinking would be if they had to take the old one out to inspect it it would be real stupid to not put in a new one in the first place. just saying
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They probably didnt have one in stock
MEMBER CRAPPIE MAFIA
That was dumber than dirt. Keep a close eye on your lower unit for water intrusion.
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Bill H. PTC USN Ret
Chesapeake, Va
line wrap is probably the#1 cause of seal failure no way I would have used the old seal JMO
Minnermatics Prostaff
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OK so I wasn't there to see it, but I personally would not run that motor til I had a new seal put on, cheaper to do that than ruin a lower unit. Something doesn't smell right about them mechanics...just my 2 cents
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If it were mine or yours, I would put a new seal in if I had pulled the old one out. Not only do you have damage to the seal lip but now you have a distorted seal that has been reinstalled. JMO but put a new seal in and don't forget to use new gear lube. Also make sure the splines on the shaft are relubricated and check the flanges on the nut that holds the prop to make sure it's secure. Good luck this season and happy fishing.
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I don't think we are getting the exact description of the shops work. I think everybody here knows you can't remove a seal for inspection and reinstall it. You basically almost have to destroy the seal to remove it. Perhaps the dealer saw that the fishing line had welded itself to the face of the seal, and not the shaft area of the seal. If that was the case, I could see him giving it a pass and letting it go. Now how much they charged, and having the boat 10 days is another question!
Guys, I appreciate the help. That's what he said that the line had melted (Shellback called it welded) to the face of the seal. I saw it and did not see any on the shaft area of the seal. They kept the boat so they could relay switch for my tilt & trim on my motor. They said they did check the lower unit and there was no damage done.
I did feel like most of you, it would have been a simple thing to replace the seal while the prop was off. I had asked them to do it but when I picked it up but I was told that the old seal would still work fine. It may be fine but I still feel putting on a new one was the best way from preventing a problem on down the road.
Again, I appreciate your help and you taking time to share your opinion.