Regardless of the brand name, I wrap my hand with a towel before wrapping braid around that to keep from being cut because that stuff will go all the way to the bone if you let it.
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Regardless of the brand name, I wrap my hand with a towel before wrapping braid around that to keep from being cut because that stuff will go all the way to the bone if you let it.
Bill Dance said their is no one line for all types of fishing,Skinny water,/Deep.Am blessed to live in a State that has all types of Water skinny dirty water to clear spring river's.We have been blessed to fish with a lot of different folks.From first timer's to Pro's.That being said the best fishing line,the easiest to spool on and use right off the Spool . We use Berkley Nano-fill 8-10 lb test,clear mist. is not mono,not braid in between.Don't take our word,not trying to sell.Check the reviews.Check it out at your local tackle shop.Took some kid's that had "never "fished,spooled them up nano-fill on spinning reel's "asking for trouble"Shimano's",small crappie jig's. No tangles.Just fishing and catching.Try taking a couple kid's with regular mono!!!!"Trouble" am I sold on nano fill!! Cabelas has came out with their on nano fill a little higher priced.But pretty good line
My all time favorite kind of braided line is ANY braid that is spooled on someone else's rod!
I hear all the great things about giving better feel, less line stretch, blah blah blah.... Yet, the issues that I see with it (in the walleye jigging community) is that far too many people are utilizing the incorrect rod with it. They use rods that are like tent poles. There is no give. They set the hook, there is no give or stretch in the line, and the end result is a hook set that rips directly out of the fish. Couple that with a stiff rod, fighting a fish doesn't allow for the rod to do any of the work. Reels need to have a lighter drag setting to offset the lack of stretch in the line and forgiveness of the rods.
There are rods that are built (high end and otherwise) where braid is NOT recommended. Mostly because the eye inserts will not handle the braid. It WILL cut through the insert. Most cheap rods however will handle it better simply because the eyelets used do NOT have fabric or polymer type inserts. They instead utilize cheap inserts in metal format (as previously pictured in this thread) or no insert at all (commonly referred to as Boat rod eyelets). The biggest issue I have seen is the user not correctly matching line with the rod and the utilization of the rod and combination as intended. In other words, they expect an "ATV" type of rod that you could potentially get out of the same rod spooled with mono simply because of the stretch of the line.
When I build a rod, the first question I ask the customer is what is the rod intended for. The second question I ask is what they intend to spool on the reel. I make my blank selection based on those two characteristics.
For trolling, I no longer utilize braid (unless I am running heavy, deep diving, salmon dipsy divers). The reason for this is simple. Most release aids used on planer boards do not hold up well with braid. The braid tends to slip through it resulting in the need to put several twists in the line in order to increase the surface area on the pads. As a result of the twist, you get line wear when you recreate the same set back over and over. Eventually, you go to pull the release and the line breaks. You do not get that with mono. Another issue is that braid will saw off the plastic stop pins inside of a planer board release. They will also saw through the pads in short order.
I understand however that for your situation, dealing with the pesky Gar, you are looking for an alternative and I would say that you are on the right track however... IF you intend to utilize a mono or floro leader between your braid and your terminal end, it really isn't going to help you much.
For what it is worth, trolling in Saginaw bay and lake Michigan, we deal with Pike, walleye, channel cats, and the occasional GAR. In most instances, the line is unharmed. For terminal line for walleye, I utilize Berkley XP 10lb. When running harnesses, it is always done with 20lb floro Seagar Red Label. For salmon, early spring gets 20lb Ande line. Towards summer and fall when the fish are pushing 30lbs, we switch up to 30lb Ande line.
I think Jackie is on the right track by the way with NanoFil.
Hardened guides is the word that you were looking for...which also includes ceramic.
You're right some rods state not to use braid....my expensive 1 piece rods also have Hardened Guides.
I believe braid is a learned art-form....knowing the habits of good braid allow you to use it for any style or technique if you choose....if you prefer to fish like a Pro and have 20 different poles for different techniques then that's you prerogative....I am now just a recreational fisherman that likes to travel light.
I have no problems casting swimbaits, or other lures, deep diving Walleye baits, drop-shotting, jigging, State Rigging, or bobber fishing, with Braid.
Once you realize it's traits, you can adjust accordingly with Rod Strength, drag, and tension.
Good braid has less tendency to twist due to its construction...I always use a snap and swivel anyway, for quick lure change, so line twist is never an issue....even on the cheap coffee grinders for Crappie.
I don't long pole or troll so I can't speak to that.
Nanofil is considered a Superline, but it's a fused line like fireline....it's downside is easy fraying (less abrasion resistence), breaking off at knots (where it's line strength is rated), and larger diameter compared to true braid of the same test.
Yep. I use a wood dowel. Closet pole scrap. I can't keep up with it though. I just make me another.