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I used to think leaders mattered in clear water lakes. I hired a guide on greers ferry lake (crystal clear water) and he was using different bright colored lines that were 30 pound braid. I even asked him about not using a leader. He told me.....wait til the end of this trip and tell me if a leader matters. Well we slap wore em out! Now for trout its a different story but we were trolling for crappie, and they did not seem to care. So I dont even use leaders anymore. haha
It will matter for gills or crackers.
Polymer knot for attaching braid to swivels, both barrel and snap. Albright knot for attaching braid to mono or braid to braid.
I use 2# test Fireline Crystal for my main line with a 4' fluorocarbon leader. I've taken some really large fish with this set up. The line never breaks and the white color is easier for these old eyes to see. The reason for the leader is for abrasion resistance and some stretch (shock absorption) that fluorocarbon provides. I would use no other knot than the Alberto for connecting the fluorocarbon to the main line braid. It has proven itself over many season of continuous use. Very dependable connection.
Ive never understood the need for braid for panfish. I thought you wanted something that would break off if you got snagged really bad? Ive never had a panfish break my line, and all i use is mono. Now bass fishing the river is a different story and i could see braid for that.
Just curious, always trying to learn something new.
I use braid on two different outfits, for slightly different reasons.Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverSlabber
On a 7' Bionic Blade rod & spinning reel, I have 10/2 PowerPro braid ... the 2# line diameter is for ease & distance of casting light baits, while the 10# breaking strength is to insure that a snagged lure can be pulled free (bending the hook open). It's mainly used for casting baits like Roadrunners or a Charlie Brewer Whirly Bee. With the braid tied directly to the bait, and having no stretch, a hookset is no more than the pulling back of the rod while continuing to reel in.
On a 14' PST rod & baitcast reel, I have 17# Cortland braid ... on that line is my 1/2oz weight, a bead, and a clip. I have pre-rigged leaders with jig heads that can be quickly changed by simply opening the clip & putting the loop knot end of the leader into that clip. Speed of change, & diversity of jig head styles/sizes/colors allows me to continue fishing while switching out jig heads. The leader is 6# test mono, so that the jig is the only thing likely to be sacrificed if snagged beyond hope of retrieval.
I have little fear that a Crappie will break the braid, but that's not its primary purpose. I use it because it's longer lived than mono, because of its no stretch quality, smaller diameter vs breaking strength, and limpness. I don't use it exclusively, as most of my outfits do have mono or copoly lines. For me, it serves a niche purpose.
... cp :kewl
Once you try braid for your mainline, you will never go back to monofilament. The "feel" factor is multiplied tremendously. Of course, you will only realize this if you do any casting or drifting for crappie. The leader, which I recommended previously, takes care of the break-off need, as well as providing the abrasion resistance needed for fishing around cover. Give it a try. I was skeptical at first. Like I said, now I would never go back.Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverSlabber
Albright is what I use.