Thanks guys, that's a lot of helpful information to get me a good idea on the proper gear needed to get setup. I can see it's going to be an expensive venture so I'll just have to ease into this for now to see how goes.
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Thanks guys, that's a lot of helpful information to get me a good idea on the proper gear needed to get setup. I can see it's going to be an expensive venture so I'll just have to ease into this for now to see how goes.
No doubt pushing cranks gives you more control of your lines and allows you to fish shorter stretches of productive water than pulling does. As a guide, my issue is sitting a couple of clients up front with 3 rods apiece when they have zero concept of what I'm trying to do. For clients, the pulling is much more client friendly.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobB
All the trips I've done by myself and with friends so far this spring have been pushing small cranks (Arkie 220s) and roadrunners/jigs with the 143T and 122T Southerns. It has been productive.
I'm looking forward to be added to that list!!Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdux
Are you keying in on structure still as much when cranking or more on transition patterns? I know that sounds stupid to ask but looks like you would be loosing a lot of lures going over a lot of structure with crank baits:dono
You are keying on transition patterns, not structure. Run cranks in open water and let the fish tell you what depth you want your bait. At $5 to $7 a crankbait, it's wise to stay away from stumps and brush! The strike by a crappie on a crank is a reaction strike based on the wiggle movement. The fish scatter after the spawn, and that's when cranking gets hot! I'm no expert by any means, but we have a lot of 'em down here that I've learned from. Go to that thread link mrdux posted for the MS Board and you'll find out about everything you need to know! A lot of reading, but a tremendous amount of info! GOOD LUCK!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ky Slab
When I pull cranks I am looking for the bait fish first. I will start looking on drop offs or on deep flats next to a channel. Once I find a good pile of bait I will try to set my cranks out to run above the bait.
But beware this can be a little addictive. Once started buying cranks it hard to stop you will end up with 4 or 5 of every crank bait that they make and still think that you need more. You may need to take out a second mortgage to cover the cost but it's only money
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You are right, kenja. Bait balls are the key to look for. And we have some hardcore crankers down here is 'ssippi say that if you ain't got 400-500 crankbaits, you're a little short! It can get expensive.....REAL FAST!Quote:
Originally Posted by kenja
I'm most of the time running as close to breaks as I dare. I lose a lot of cranks in a years time, if that's a problem, you don't need to be playing the game. That's why I paint a big portion of my own cranks. Later, as the water temps get steamy, I'm going to be off-shore looking for baitballs and suspended fish. This is where most newbies to cranks fail. Too much emphasis is placed on maximum depth on the cranks. Lots of times I'll be in 20-30 feet of water running cranks 8-10 feet deep. Those baits are going to be exactly where my electronics tell me to put them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ky Slab
I saw a deal on the Arkies this winter and bought quite a few of them. Hadn't tried them before, but am going to give them a shot. I also have some of the C55's which may be too big for pushing.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdux
There's a small lake near me that I want to map ..... Maybe I'll get out there late spring and do some mapping and pushing.
The 220 Arkies, Rattle Traps,Shad Raps, any shallow runner cranks is fine. I WILL NOT push 300 Bandits, c55s, or any other deep runner cranks. It's added depth you don't need and the load on the rod is more than is needed. Your depth should be controlled by the weight above the crank.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobB