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They're the ones that are in the Spro jigs like this and all the guys that use them for sea run stripers up to 30-40 lbs complain about many of the hooks breaking.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1aB
I use the 2/0s Gamis for trout and flounder in my personal jigs and I like them but they are expensive.
its not that hard and takes about 20mins to do it right...just make sure you keep test fitting the hook to make sure you dont take off to much...if you take of to much then when you pour them the lead will run into you eyelets and cover your eyelets with lead...take your time with it and it will turn out great
Don't have a dremel, would you use a drill press or an electric drill?
IMO, 635 isn't the best choice for strength. If the stripers are tuf enuf to break 604s, they will likely bend out the 635s. Again IMO, the Mustad 32786 would be a stronger hook, but a more complex mold mod. It would be possible to do the easier 635 mod now and later on remodify for the 32786 if needed. "LedHed", what do you think?
Are the 32786's made for saltwater? I looked them up on Cabelas but didn't see anything about corrosion resistance. When bucktails sit in a box a long time at the beach if any moisture gets in the box (IE putting one back in wet/damp) they'll rust if they're not made for saltwater hooks.
Do-It has the next size up Ultra Minnow mold asking for them but it says they're not saltwater compatible.
The only ones they have for salt are the 8/0 hooks in the 2, 2.5, 3 oz mold with Mustad 91715 or 34184. Which are the sizes saltwater striper guys use, I just don't want to buy another mold just yet.
Sorry, should have specified 32786BLN, which I observe has become a standard salt water inshore jig hook choice. The BLN finish appears to be superior to bronze but inferior to tin for salt water corrosion resistance. I quit using 34184 and 91715 years ago when the points became too dull for my liking, but maybe they've improved. The 32786BLN is way sharper and perhaps a bit stronger with the special Ultra Point temper, and well priced IMO.
i modified my ball jig head mold from # 1/0and 2/0 hooks to 5/0 hooks. it was pretty easy. i just put the hook in the mold laying where it should go. then close the mold and hold it tightly closed. then i took the mold and placed it on its side on a steel i beam. took a hammer and began to beat the other side of the mold. the molds are aluminium so the metal is not as hard as the hook. it will make a perfect impression of the hook into the mold. it didnt take me long and the mold now pours better than it did with the smaller hooks. an old fisherman that i know told me that was how he made his molds fit the hooks he wanted in them. the impression is a perfect duplication of the hook inside. if you dremel tool your mold and take out too much you can't go back and add the metal back. that is how i did my mold. it is up to you if you want to try it in your mold. i hope this helps.
Just used a drill and a small sanding disk only take a little bit at a time!!! Slow and sure is the way.
Fatman
use a reg. hand held drill with a stone bit...its going to grind it out alot slower and you want have to worry about messing up...the drill press would work also...its up to you what you want to do.....my no collar 1/16 pro. mold holds hooks from #8 - #1/0...so you can do almost anything you want with a mold to hold diff. styles of hooks and sizes
Alright thanks guys. I'll order up some hooks and get to working.